අපගේ මෙම සංචාරයේ මූලික අරමුණ වූයේ සිංහරාජ වනාන්තරයේ සිංහ ගල සොයායාමයි.

කඹුරුපිටියෙන් උදේ 7ට පමණ ගමන් ආරම්භ කර අනෙක් සාමාජිකයින් 5 දෙනා සමග අකුරැස්ස, උඩුගම හරහා නෙලුව බලා ගමන් ගත් අතර මංජු සහ ජයනෙත්ති පිලියන්දලින් ගමන් ආරම්භ කර දක්ෂිණ අධීවේගී මාර්ගයේ වැලිපැන්න පිවිසුමෙන් පැමිණ පැලවත්ත හරහා නෙලුවට පැමිණ අප හා එක්විය. නෙලුවෙන් අවශ්ය ආහාර ද්රාව්ය හා අනෙකුත් භාණ්ඩ මිලදී ගැනීමෙන් පසු අප පලමුවෙන්ම නෙලුව ලංකගම මාර්ගයේ නෙලුවේ සිට 7km ක් පමණ දුරින් පිහිටි කොස්මුල්ල දුවිලි ඇල්ල නැරඹීම සඳහා ගියෙමු. අප එම ස්ථානයට ලඟාවනවිට වර්ෂාව ඇදහැලෙමින් පැවතිනි. වර්ෂාව නොතකා ඇල්ල නැරඹූ අප, අපගේ දිවා ආහාරය එම ස්ථානයේදී ගැනීමට සූදානම් කර තිබුනත් වර්ෂාව නිසා දිවා ආහාරය නොගෙනම එම ස්ථානයෙන් පිටත් වී ලංකගම බලා ගමන් ඇරඹීමු. 11km ක් පමණ දුර ගෙවා ලංකගමට පැමිණෙන විට සවස 3.00 පමණ විය.

කොස්මුල්ලෙන් පසු මාර්ගය ඉතා පටුවන අතර, අධික කඳු බෑවුම් සහ වංගු සහිත එම මාර්ගයේ ඉතා සැලකිල්ලෙන් රථ ධාවනය කල යුතු විය. මාර්ගය ලංකගම තෙක් කොන්ක්රීට් අතුරා ඇති නමුත් සමහර ස්ථාන කැඩී ගොසින්ය.

Neluwa Kosmulla Duvili Ella

Click Image to Enlarge

ලංකගම ගම්මානයට පැමිණෙන විටම මාර්ගයේ වම් අත පැත්තෙන් දර්ශනීය දිය ඇල්ලක් දිස් වේ.එය බ්රාමහ්මණ ඇල්ලයි. එයට ඉහලින් තවත් දිය ඇලි හතරක් පිහිටා ඇත. ඇලි නැරඹීම පසුවට කල් තැබූ අප අපගේ නවාතැන වූ පිටදෙනිය නිවහන බලා ගමන් කලෙමු.

ලංකගම පාසල පසුකර ඉදිරියට යන විට පිටදෙනිය සංචාරක කළාපය, හා ලංකගම සංචාරක කළාපයට ඇති මාර්ග පෙන්වන පුවරුව හමුවේ. ඔබ පැමිණෙන්නේ 4WD හා Winch සහිත ජීප් රථයකින් නම් පිටදෙනිය සංරක්ෂණ මධ්යබස්ථානයටම ගමන් කල හැක. ඒ සඳහා ලංකගම සංචාරක කළාපය පෙන්වා ඇති දිශාවට ගමන් කරන්න. දැන්වීම් පුවරුවෙන් දකුණට හැරෙනවත් සමග ඉදිරියෙන් යකඩ පාළමක් හමුවේ. එම පාලමෙන් ගමන් කර 500m ක් පමණ ඉදිරියට යනවිට මාර්ගයේ දුෂ්කරම කොටස හමු වේ. ටැක්ටර් ගමන් කිරීම නිසා මාර්ගය දෙපස හෑරී දැඩි ලෙස අබලන් වී ඇත. අප ගමන් ගත් ජීප් රථද එම මාර්ගයේ ධාවනය කරවූයේ ඉතා අපහසුවෙනි. මාර්ගයේ සමහර ස්ථානවල්දී ගල් දමා සකස්කර ගැනීමට සිදුවිය. එක් ස්ථානයකදී Winch එක පවා භාවිතා කිරීමට සිදුවිය.

Lankagama Pitadeniya Map (not to Scale) – Click Image to Enlarge

ඔබ පැමිනෙන්නේ වෑන් රථයකින් නම් එම මාර්ගයේ ගමන් කල නොහැකි අතර දැන්වීම් පුවරුවේ ඇති පිටදෙනිය සංචාරක කළාපය ලෙස පෙන්වා ඇති දිශාවට ගමන් කල යුතුය. එවිට පිටදෙනිය සංරක්ෂණ මධ්යනස්ථානයට වාහනය රැගෙනයාමට නොහැක. එම මාර්ගයේ 1km ක් පමණ ඉදිරියට ගිය විට ආරණුව දොළ හරහා ඇති පටු යකඩ පාළම හමුවේ. ඒ ආසන්න ආරක්ෂිත ස්ථානයක වාහනය නවතා, එතැන් සිට අඩි පාරේ 300m පමණ ගිය විට ගිංගඟ හරහා ඇති වැල් පාළම හමු වේ. වැල් පාළමේ අනෙක් පස ඇත්තේ පිටදෙනිය සංරක්ෂණ මධ්යපස්ථානයයි.

Crossing the Ginganga

Aranuwa Dhola

On the Way

On the Way

Pitadeniya Nivahana

Plant Demonstration of Rain Forest – Click Image to Enlarge

මෙම පිටදෙනිය සංරක්ෂණ මධ්යගස්ථානයට ආසන්නයේම වනිගසේකර නිවහන පිහිටා ඇති අතර ඊට 50m ක් පමණ දුරින් ගිංගඟ නිවහන පිහිටා ඇත. ගිංගඟ නිවහනට 30m ක් පමණ දුරින් පිටදෙනිය නිවහන පිහිටා ඇත.

පිටදෙනිය නිවහනේ සිට බැලූ විට ආරණුව දොළ හරහා ඇති පාළම දිස්වන අයුරු

පිටදෙනිය සංරක්ෂණ මධ්යදස්ථානයේ සිට බැලූ විට ගිංගඟ දිස්වන අයුරු

අප පිටදෙනිය සංරක්ෂණ මධ්යගස්ථානයට පැමිණ සුලු මොහොතකින් වර්ෂාව පතිතවන්නට විය. එම ස්ථානයේ සිටම දිවා ආහාරය ගන්නා විට වේලාව සවස 4.30 පමණ විය.

අපගේ අනන්ය්යතාව තහවුරු කිරිමෙන් පසු රැගෙන එන ලද ආහාර ද්රතව්ය හා ඩීසල් භාර දීමෙන් පසු අපගේ නවාතැන වූ පිටදෙනිය නිවහනට වර්ෂාව මධ්යලයේම ගියෙමු. සවස 6.30 පමණ වනවිට අවට තිබූ නිහැඬියාව බඳ දමින් විදුලි ජනකය ක්රිලයාත්මක විය. එයින් නැගුනු අධික ගෝෂාව නිසා අපටද ඇතිවුයේ ඉතා අප්රබසන්න හැඟීමකි. ඒ අවස්ථාවේ විදුලිජනකය අක්රී යකරන ලෙස ඉල්ලා සිටීමටද හැකියාවක් නොමැති වූයේ, ඒ වනවිට වනිගසේකර නිවහනේ තවත් කණ්ඩායමක් ලැගුම් ගෙන සිටි නිසාවෙනි.

එදින රාත්රීක ආහාර ගැනීමෙන් පසු අප පසු දින දිවා අහාරය පාර්සල් කරදෙන ලෙස ඉල්ලා සිටි අතර අපට සිංහ ගලට යාමට මගපෙන්වන්නෙකු ලබා දෙන ලෙසද ඉල්ලා සිටියෙමු.

පසු දින උදේ 8.30ට පමණ සිංහ ගලට යාමට ගමන් ඇරඹූ අපට අනුර නම් මග පෙන්වන්නෙකුගේ සහාය ලැබුනි. අධික ලෙස කූඩැල්ලන් සිටින නිසා අධි සාන්ද්රරන්යෙන් යුත් ලුණු වතුර බෝතලයක් සාදා ගන්නා ලෙස ඔහුගෙන් උපදෙස් ලැබුනී. අප ලුණු වලට අමතරව සබන් හා සිද්ධාලේප රැගෙන ගියෙමු. සබන් හා සිද්ධාලේප කූඩැල්ලන්ට එතරම් තර්ජනයක් නොවුවත් ලුණු වතුර කූඩැල්ලන්ගෙන් අපව ගලවා ගැනීමට සමත් විය.(සිංහගලට යන තෙක් පමණී)

සිංහරාජය තරණය කරමින්

සිංහගල සොයා යන අතරතුර මද විවේකයක්

පිටදෙනිය නිවහනේ සිට සිංහ ගලට 14km ක් පමණ දුර බව ස්ථාන භාරකරු අපට පැවසීය. අපේ මග පෙන්වාන්නා වන අනුර ද එය සනාථ කරනු ලැබීය. පිටදෙනිය නිවහනෙන් ගමන් ඇරඹූ අප ගිංගඟ හරහා ඇති වැල් පාළම හා ආරණුව දොල හරහා ඇති පටු යකඩ පාළමෙන්  එගොඩ  වී වතුගල ගම්මානය හරහා 3km ක් පමණ ගොස් සිංහරාජ වනයට ඇතුලුවිය. වතුගල ගම්මානය හරහා පැමිණෙද්දී අධික වෙහෙසක් දැනුනමුත් වනයට ඇතුලු වූ විගස එය පහව ගියේය.

ඝන  වනාන්තරයේ පැහැදිලි අඩි පාරවල් නොතිබූ අතර අපගේ මගවෙන්වන්නාද තැනින් තැන මග සළකුණු තබමින් අපව රැගෙන ඉදිරියට ගමන් කලේය. වනය තුල 5km ක් පමණ ඉදිරියට යද්දී අපට එම ප්‍රදේශයේ අලි ගැවසුනු බවට හැඟෙන සලකුණු හමුවිය. විශාල අලියෙකුගේ හා කුඩා අලියෙකුගේ පා සලකුණු අපට පැහැදිළිව දැකගත හැකිවිය. බිම දමා පොඩිකර ආහාරයට ගත් කිතුල් ගසක කොටස් ද අපට හමු වූ අතර, එම ගසේ කොලවල තිබූ පැහැය අනුව එය සතියකට මෑත කාලයක බිමදැමූ ගසක් බව පැහැදිලිව පෙනිනි. අලි වසුරුද හමු වූ අතර  ඒවාද එතරම් දවස් ගත නොවූ බවක් පෙනින.  අප  ගමන් කල යුතු මග අලීන් ගමන් කල මගම විය. අලි ගමන් කල මාර්ගයේ 4kmක් පමණ අප ගමන් කල අතර එම මාර්ගය දල බෑවුම් සහිත කඳු හරහා වැටී තිබුනි. සමහර ස්ථානවලින් අලි කෙසේ ගියේදැයි අපට සිතාගැනීමටත් අපහසු විය. මාර්ගය ඉතා පටු වන අතර පහළින් විශාල හෙල වල් තිබූ ස්ථානවලින් අලි ගමන් කර තිබුනි. අපද එම මාර්ගයේ ගමන් ගත්තේ මාර්ගයට ඉහලින් ඇති ගස් වල එල්ලී ගෙනය. අපගේ මගපෙන්වන්නාද අවුරුදු 20ක් පමණ සිංහ ගලට යන මාර්ගය ගැන  අත්දැකීම් සහිත පුද්ගලයෙකු වුවත් ඔහුටද මෙය ආගන්තුක දර්ශනයක් බව අපට හැඟීනි.

සිංහගල මත

සිංහගල මත සිට ප්රිපාතය පෙන්වන අයුරු

10kmක් පමණ ගමන් කල අප තැනිතලා ප්ර්දේශයක් හරහා ගමන් කලෙමු. එහි ගලායන දොලපහරවල් කිහිපයක් හමුවූහ. එහි ජලය ඉතා පිරිසිදු තත්වයේ තිබූ අතර අප පානය කලේද එම ජලයයි. සිංහ ගල නැගීමට ආසන්න වෙද්දී අපගේ මග පෙන්වන්න පවසා සිටියේ අප රැගෙන ආ බෝතල් වලට ජලය පුරවා ගන්නා ලෙසයි. අප සිංහ ගල නැගීම පටන් ගත් අතර එය සීග්ර නැගීමක් සහිත විය. මාර්ගය පැහැදිලිව නොපෙනුනත් අනුර ගමන් ගත් මාර්ගයේ අපද ගමන් ගතිමු. කන්දේ ටික දුරක් යනවිට අපට ඉතා අධික වෙහෙසක් දැනුනමුත් තැනින් තැන කෙටි විවේක ලබාගනිමින් අප කන්ද මුදුනටම පැමිනියෙමු. ඉන් පසු සුලු දුරක් කන්ද අනෙක් පසට බැසීමෙන් සිංහ ගල නම් ස්ථානය හමු විය. එවිට වේලාව දහවල් 12.30 පමණ විය. අපට සිංහ ගලට පැමිනීමට පැය 4ක් පමණ ගතවී තිබුනි.

සිංහ ගල උඩට පැමිණි මට මතකයට ආවේ පළමුවෙන්ම ලෝකාන්තයට ගියපු ගමනයි. මෙම ස්ථානයද ඊට ටිකක් දුරට සමානය. පහලින් ඇති ප්රටපාතය ටික වේලාවකින් මීදුමෙන් වැසීගිය අතර එයද ලෝකාන්තය මෙන් විය.

මීදුමෙන් වැසී යන අයුරු

කුණකටුව

අං ශක 300 ක පමණ පුලුල් පරාසයක් නැරඹිය හැකි එම ස්ථානයට රත්නපුර, මාතර, සහ ගාල්ල දිස්ත්රී ක තුනම දැකගත හැකි වීම විශේෂත්වයකි. මීදුම තුරල් වූ විට ඈතින් පෙනෙන ගොංගල කඳුවටිය පැහැදිලිව දර්ශනය විය. අප සිංහ ගලට පැමිණ ස්වල්ප වේලාවකින් පසු මද වර්ෂාවක් ඇදවැටුන අතර ටික වේලවකින් එය පහව ගියේය. ඉන් ටික වේලවකට පසු අප රැගෙන එන ලද දිවා ආහාරය එම ස්ථානයේදී ගත්හ. ටික වේලාවක් එම ස්ථානයේ රැඳී සිටි අප මීදුම ගලා ඒමත් සමග එම ස්ථානයෙන් පිටත්වූහ. අප සිංහ ගල කන්ද බැසීම ඇරඹීමත් සමග තද වැසි පතිත වන්නට විය. වැස්සට තෙමි තෙමී ගමන් කරන අපට ලොකුම බාධකය වූයේ අපගේ කැමරා උපකරණ වැස්සෙන් ආරක්ෂාකර ගැනීමයි. අප පහසුවෙන් පසුකර ගිය දොල පහරවල් වලින් නැවත පැමිනෙන විට විශාල ජලපහරවල් ගලායාම නිසා අපට එම ස්ථාන පසුකිරීමට සිදු වූයේද ඉතා අපහසුවෙනි. අප නැවත පැමිනෙන විට වැස්සට හසුවීම නිසා ලුණු වතුර සහ සබන් වලින් කිසිම ප්රසයෝජනයක් නොවූ අතර කූඩැල්ලන්ගේ දැඩි ප්රඹහාරයට ලක්විය. අප නවාතැනට පැමිනෙනවිට සවස 5.00 පමණ විය.

බ්රාුහ්මණ ඇල්ල

තට්ටු ඇල්ල

පසු දින උදේ 8.30ට පමණ අප පිටදෙනිය නිවහනෙන් පිටත් විය. එසේ පැමිනෙන අතරතුර ලංකගම ආසන්නයේ ඇති දිය ඇළි නැරඹීමටද ගියෙමු. මෙහිදී 1km ක් පමණ දුරක් තුල දියඇළි 5ක් දැකගත හැකිවීම විශේෂත්වයකි. මාර්ගය ආසන්නයේ ඇති අවසරපත් කවුලුවෙන් අවසරපත් ලබාගත් අප මගපෙන්වන්නෙකු සමග පිටත්විය. පලමුවෙන්ම ඔහු අපව රැගෙනගියේ බ්රා හ්මණ ඇල්ල වෙතයි. එය තරමක් පළලින් වැඩි දිය ඇල්ලකි. ඊලගට අප ඌරා වැටුන ඇල්ලට ගියහ. මෙම ඇල්ල නැරඹූ අපට හැඟී ගියේ මෙය ඌරා වැටුන ඇල්ල නොව රූටා වැටෙන ඇල්ල ලෙසයි. මක්නිසාදයත් එය ගල්තලාව දිගේ රූටා වැටෙන නිසයි.

ඌරා වැටුන ඇල්ල

ලංකගම දූවිලි ඇල්ල

ඌරා වැටුන ඇල්ලෙන් වැටෙන ජල පහර ඊට පහළින් පිහිටා ඇති පටු එහෙත් ගැඹුරු ගල් දොරුවකට ඇද වැටේ, එය ගල්දොරුව ඇල්ලයි. එය ආරක්ෂිතව නැරඹීම සඳහා කුඩා වේදිකාවක් ඉදිකර ඇත. ගල්දොරුව ඇල්ලෙන් ගලායන ජලය ඊලඟට එකතුවන්නේ බ්රා හ්මණ ඇල්ලටයි

ඊලඟට අප ගියේ දුවිලි ඇල්ල බැලීමටයි. එය තරමක් උසින් යුත් දිය ඇල්ලක් වන අතර එයින් විසිරී යන ජල බිඳිති ඒ අවට දූවිල්ලක් සේ ගුවනට මුසුවේ. එම නිසා ඇල්ල ආසන්නයට ගිය විට ජලයෙන් නැහැවීයයි. ආසන්නයේ සිට ඡායාරුපයක් ගැනීම පවා අසීරුය. අප එම ස්ථානයට යනවිටත් විශාල පිරිසක් එහි නාමින් සිටියහ. දූවිලි ඇල්ලෙන් ගලායන ජලය එක්වන්නේ ඊට පහළින් පිහිටි තට්ටු ඇල්ලටයි. එය තට්ටු 2කකින් යුතු අතර තරමක් පළලින් යුතු ඇල්ලකි. තට්ටු ඇල්ලෙන් ගලායන ජලය එකතුවන්නේද බ්රාඑහ්මණ ඇල්ලටයි. දිය ඇලි නැරඹීමෙන් පසු ආපසු ගමන් ඇරඹූ අප නෙලුවට ලඟා වූ පසු මංජු හා ජයනෙත්ති අපෙන් සමුගෙන පිලියන්දල බලා පිටත් වූ අතර අප කඹුරුපිටිය බලා නැවත පැම්ණි මාර්ගයේම පිටත් වීමූ.

ගල් දොරුව ඇල්ල

ආපසු පැමිණීමට සූදානම් වී

ආපසු පැමිණීමට සූදානම් වී

Singharaja Rain Forest Map

Singharaja Rain Forest Map (මෙම සිතියම අන්තර්ජාලයෙන් උපුටාහන්න ලදි)

This journey we did some times back, most of the members of the crew are members of “Dumbara Mithuro” Environmental and Cultural Society. The society is devoted for the conservation activities in the Knuckles mountain range. On the other hand expedition in the knuckles forest is another prime objective of the society.

Knuckles mountain range consist of 34 main peaks and the most popular one among the public is “Knuckles” peak( 6,128), while the highest peak is “Gombania(6,253)”. Kalupahana is famous for disastrous cardamom estates, but it locates in the middle of the knuckles range, the peak (5,341) also surrounded by the estates. Our journey was planned in order to achieve the highest peak and assess the current condition of the “cardamom estate” in Kalupahana. We planned the journey in two stages as there is a long distance between Gombania and Kalupahana via forest, and that direction is very difficult due to the steep slope. It’ll take at least 12 hours to reach gombania to kalupaha, and also carrying a heavy backpack to facilitate 3 nights is not possible with the difficult path. (No path, actually we’ve to find a path).

Part 1 – Gombania

We started the journey around 4.00 a.m. at Malabe and reached Bambarella around 7.30 a.m. the first target was “Gombania”. Mr. Talwatta at Panwila helped us to find a well experienced and knowledgeable guide called “Nimal”. Through panwilla, huluganga we came up to “Alakolla Estate” by car and a motor bike. Road inside the estate is not possible with a car up to the point where road ends, but a vehicle with more ground clearance could do.

Factory

The road is ok about 1km after the factory using a normal vehicle, thereafter about 2km road is available up to the resting place constructed by the estate.

Resting Place

This is an ideal place to have a rest, before start the hiking through the forest, better to refill the water bottles. After this point up to another 1 km there is a foot path used by the estate workers. Thereafter we decided to find a direction to reach the peak, with the guidance of the land marks, but on our return we realized that there is a hidden path to the peak, but it is not clear at all.

We had to find our own path and clear the under grown

Gombania mountain range

Hiking through plants

Nimal, our guide explaining the plan to the crew, at this point we’ve done a half of the trek, behind the crew you can see the surrounding area down (Panwila & bambarella).

After that planning session we started the most difficult half of the trek, both the slope and thickness of the forest increases.

You cannot walk steadily and have to bend down.

The mountain is covered with plenty of flowers specially orchids.

The mountain is covered with plenty of flowers specially orchids.

After about 3 hours trekking we reached to the bottom of the rock (peak)

Then we had to go around the rock to reach the summit.

Happy faces at the summit

The peak is always covered in mist and sometimes it clears for few minutes, we captured some village in the down.

we captured some village in the down

Misty mountains

Misty mountains

We spent about 2 hours at the peak while having lunch and started to climb down , at least 3 hours is required to reach the resting place, hence before sun go down we went down.

First day night we stayed at the temple at bambarella

Part 2 – Kalupahana

Next day morning we started the journey to Kalupahana from bambarella, which is fairly easy one, as there is a very clear foot path. Two new members from bambarella joined the crew in place of local members (Nimal and Talwatta) participated in the yesterday.

A Typical view of “Knuckles Mountains” from bambarella

We continued our journey to kalupahana through “Lebonan Estate”

Without any difficulty we reached to Kalupahana cardamom estates within 2 hours and decided to stay at “KMP wadiya”

You can imagine the scale of cardamom estates in Kalupahana, these constructions are permanent illegal things within the knuckles range. Compared to the past now the cardamom estates are not functioning actively as it is prohibited by the rules. But we’ve observed still some “Ovens” which used to dried cardamom are operating. Due to the cardamom estates there is two main threats to the forest. First the under grow is cleared for cardamom plantations and hence in future when the matured trees died, there is no generation to fulfill the gap. Second, for, the matured trees are used for the fuel requirements of Ovens. Once the matured trees are died the “Kalupahana” will just be a grass land.

KMP wadiya

Pictures of Ovens

Cardamom – inside the oven

Cardamom Plantations – see the entire under grown is cleared

We started the trekking for Kalupahana peak early in the morning and had to reach the peak through cardamom estates while having a worm well come from leeches

worm well come from leeches

Sunrise at the peak, while we are striving

Beauty of a Montane forest

Crew at the summit

As I mentioned earlier Kalupahana Mountain is located in the center of the knuckles mountain range, hence you can have a 360 degree view of the entire range could be observed.

Knuckles mountains

Lakegala

Weak sight of Gombania through clouds

We came back to the bambarella via the same route to end our jouney. If you visit kalupahana do not forget to climb the mountain to get a panoramic view of the entire forest.

Hasalaka = Elephant Pass

Ring any bells? How about this formula then?

Hasalaka + Gamini = Elephant Pass

That should certainly look familiar coz those are inseparable names in our recent history and it would only be infants or very young children who haven’t heard this war hero Corp. Gamini Kularathna. I actually had to change the name of my report from “Pride of Hasalaka” to “Lifeline of Hasalaka” coz Hasalaka Gamini is the Pride of Hasalaka.

So here I’m again with the continuation of my fairy tale from breath-taking Meemure and hope you’ve read it and enjoyed it as much as I did (Jaunting off to the Most Beautiful Village on Earth – Meemure).

This banner is at diplay at Elephant Pass, I took this pic in Apr 2011…

This is the destroyed bull dozer at Elephant pass

I left you guys at Hunnasgiriya after our morning snack of sponge cake, banana and what keeps me going Coffee… We had to wait at Hunnasgiriya for a Mahiyanganaya bus longer than I liked due to 25 April being a Poya day.

Finally around 8.15am, there was a CTB bus and we gladly got into it. However, to my utmost amazement, after about 600m, it stopped for tea. Would you believe it, you wait about 40mins for a bus and then it stops for tea as soon as you get into it  I realized they usually stop at that particular place not far from Hunnasgiriya town for a break. I was anyway in a very happy mood coz Meemure was magnificent and everything went according to plan. After another 10mins we were finally on our way, passing Dumbara mountain range.

You gotta see them to believe it. Such beautiful unending, misty mountains, glinting in the morning sun like diamonds, gosh, I was speechless and the bus driver wasn’t kind enough to stop for a quick snap We then reached the newly laid 18-bends and it’s been ages since I last was here and I’d practically forgotten all about it till recent hullabaloo of widening the road. It really is great that they’ve widened and carpeted that bit coz it’d been very difficult for vehicles, especially for buses and Lorries, to maneuver around, causing long tail backs.

They even have put up mirrors at the bends so that you can see the opposite end, I guess this helps when it’s misty and you can see the reflection of headlights of other vehicles coming up or down. Again, the driver won’t have any of my pleas for a quick stopover

Lemme tell you something very interesting happened in the bus. There was this fellow (later he said his name Asela, if I’m not mistaken) and started, I guessed, a typical bus talk and I simply ignored him. However, after sometime, I realized that he was actually talking about preserving the nature and giving us advice what we should and could do. Unfortunately, when I realized this, he was at the end of his speech and requested all the mothers to pack their husbands’, sons’ or daughters’ lunch into a container, not to use polythene covers. Well I felt ashamed of not listening to him properly:-(

His parting words were these: “We don’t own this Mother Nature. We just belong there”. What a remarkable saying it really is. He even sold a tiny booklet of his ideas and things we should do for Rs. 10/- and let me tell you, by the time he reached the back of the bus, every one of them was sold out. It shows that our people really do care about this world, what they need is some good advice delivered nicely and practically. I hope Asela would forgive me for thinking as if he was just another nuisance in the bus. (Hope one day he will get to know this

We reached Hasalaka around 9.30am and went in search of a tuk-tuk. However, I went and spoke to a fruit vendor and asked the directions to Rathna Ella rather than speaking directly to a tuk-tuk and my tact worked. He then pointed at a certain tuk-tuk and said he’d know where to go. He’s been called by his buddies “Deyya” and he asked for Rs. 400/- for the trail head and promised to take us right up and show how to get to Rathna Ella.

We happily got in and went past the Statue of Hasalaka Gamini and turned to our right (coming from Hasalaka town) along the road to Wasgamuwa. After about 1km passing the main bridge across Hasalaka tank, we turned left to Sri Dammananda road which too has a narrow (passable by a small vehicle like a Dimo Batta or tuk-tuk) iron bridge. You can’t miss it

From there, difficult go get the directions, but you just have to follow you nose and ask the villages if you travel by your own vehicle. In about 20mins, we reached the end of our journey by tuk-tuk and I asked Deyya if we could leave our baggage somewhere. He then took us to this Weda Mama’s place (Ashan had used the same place when he went to see Rathna Ella) and got the permission to keep our baggage there. Unfortunately, Weda Mama wasn’t at home but his wife was very kind.

Through his garden, we had to climb (about 10ft) up to the channel which is about 4-5ft in width. Along it, they had built a bunt and we just had to follow it to the Rathna Ella. (Walk in the park compared to what we did in Meemure, but not even close when compared to the surroundings).

Sometimes, the path is too narrow, you gotta be very careful as there’s a steep downhill on the left. We walked and walked thanking the thick forest patch on the right above us sheltering the path from scorching sun. This channel carries water to the paddy fields down hill and the farmers plough and harvest 3 seasons (other areas only two, Yala and Maha) and Deyya mentioned that the water levels don’t get completely dried up. Hasalaka Oya keeps the water levels sufficient enough for those people to farm.

We passed about 3 falls below, which can only be heard and barely seen due to thick grown trees on the downhill below. It’d be really challenging to get down through all that. I though it’d be more feasible coming down from Rathna Ella along Hasalaka Oya as the water levels were not at an alarmingly high. There’s another famous water fall called “Kaluwa Wetuna Ella” before the Rathna Ella. Unfortunately we couldn’t get down to her even though we heard her clear enough. However, there was another beautiful fall considerably high about 150m from the base of Rathna Ella and I’m not sure if it has a name.

The Statue at Hasalaka, behind is the road towards Wasgamuwa

One of the greatest heroes of our recent past….

This is the narrow iron bridge I mentioned about… I’m watching if a vehicle is coming coz you can’t be on the bridge when one does

Haslaka Tank

I love this pic

Along the way, they are getting ready of another ploughing

Up there is the main road but you can’t really see it through the trees

Resting place at the paddy field

Ok, just got on to the bunt and away we went

Some tricky passes (you gotta jump from one to the other or get into the channel )

Shady all the way

This water is precious for those farmers

The first glimpse was through the forest patch above a paddy field and many millions of wows were started there. She was so rich and beautiful and I was staring at her in a trance till my friend reminded me that we could of course get nearer to her I felt very silly.

Then there was the talking rather communicating bull (again you heard it right) and here’s what happened. He was huge and pitch black fellow and my friend asked if the falls is near from him and to my disbelief, he actually nodded not just once but twice. (Reminds you of fairy tales of Andare, right?). My friend too was flabbergasted and he then asked if we’d have any difficulties getting to the falls. Guess what happened? He simply shook his head, twice again as if to say “No, there won’t be any trouble”:-) :-) :-)

I decided not to burden him with further questions and went happily and at a quicker face to reach my beloved Rathna Ella ASAP. We first saw the cascade I mentioned above and she too was about 20-30ft in height. Even though it was considerably dry, the water levels were great and helped us get closer without any trouble. Rathna Ella was like a mother to many falls. If you look closely, she resembles Baker’s falls a bit, like a stretched version of Baker’s falls. (I simply don’t like to use that name as it’s a name of a killer of many Elephants, but what choice do I have?

There’s a path you have to take to get to the base of Rathna Ella, but it’s really difficult to get very close as the water is fiercely coming down with billions of water droplets covering the whole area. You’re bound to get wet completely in seconds. We stayed as close as possible about half hour and then came back to the first cascade and got this urge to go for a cool dip. It’s very dangerous to go for a swim in the base pool, so we chose a harmless, innocuous rock pool and had nice cool dip and it really refreshed us.

After about another half hour, around 11.30am, we left, sadly though, and reached Weda Mama’s place around 12.30pm. On the way back, we met about 2-3 groups of people carrying bottles and food to the falls and felt very annoyed. Hopefully, they didn’t abuse her that much. We reached Weda Mama’s house and there was a nice cocoa tree which donated us one of her juicy cocoa which we devoured after a tiring walk.

Deyya was waiting and we said our thanks to Weda Mama’s wife and departed for Hasalaka town. On our way back, we paid our respects to one of the greatest heroes of our recent history, Hasalaka Gamini, who made the supreme sacrifice for this country. He’ll forever be remembered.

Then Deyya showed us the place called “Ambula” (right in front of Hasalaka Police station) for lunch. They served us a very delicious meal of Carrot, Polos (my favorite), Mallung, Papadam (full vegetarion coz it was the Poya) and I simply loved it. The price was too very cheap and we then crossed the road and waited for a Kandy bus.

On our way along 18-bends, we could see miles into Mahiyanganaya area, Hasalaka Oya was clearly visible and I suppose the bigger one beyond that was the famous Sora Bora Wewa. It’d’ve been grand to go for a walk along the 18-bends in the early morning coz you can see the sun rising and the surrounding mountains will be simply amazing to watch.

We reached Kandy around 3.55pm and had nightmarish incident with the Kandy station officers those who were extremely rude and impolite. We then were forced to take the 4.06pm Podimenike instead of the Intercity at 5.10pm or 5.30pm and reached Fort around 7.30pm.

That’s the end of my fairy tale of Rathna Ella, Sri de Hasalaka…. What an unforgettable journey it turned out to be coz Rathna Ella came into my radar very unexpectedly and since then I wanted to go see her.

Hope you guys enjoyed my vivid fairy tale

Cheers… now to the most amazing pic story.

There She issssssssssss

Getting closer, zooming in

Up close, such a beauty

All done and dusted

Grand place to spend a night, complete isolation

Giving them a hand

Talking Bull posing for a pic

Need to wait a bit more

The cascade just before the Mother Rathna Ella

You can see they’ve built a wall and made a small reservoir like

Above the trees, very near

The small cascade flows down

Not overflowing but enough to retain the beauty

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Steep climb to reach the Rathna Ella

Rock boulders

Some more, apparently in high season, water flows clean above these

Finally full face… she’s a Queen

Breath-taking and majestic

Wish I could hug you

When the water levels are very high, it would be the sight

Wasps’ honey (Bambara Wada)

Curd and Honey??? gorgeous mushrooms

Well….

Tiny falls just below

Mother is watching over her daughter

Had a dip in a shallow rock pool

Bidding farewell

Where did she come from?

Pair of them

Awesome

See you lady, and we gonna badly miss you

“We don’t own this Mother Nature; We simply belong there. We depend on her. So we have no right to abuse her in any way. Protect her by all means…. “

On 1st of May, we took a bus to Ellamalle and then walked towards Ella Rock Point. The day was clear and all the mountain ranges were visible.

Thotupola Kanda

The ‘Double M’ – Hakgala

It was an easy walk though mostly eucalyptus plantations

We came across a lot of spider webs of different sizes

As it was after the rainy season there were a lot of new pine plants all over the place

We reached a clear place and were able to see far away

When we reached the 1st observation point, we could see the Babaragama waterfall and the Wellawaya – Ella road.

The Bridge far below

The top part of the waterfall

As it was just after the monsoon the whole area was green

‘Handa Mama’ was still around

After spending some time at the observation point we started walking towards Ella Rock Point. On our way to Ella Rock I had to listen to several lectures……. and my father was the lecturer!!!

Lecture 1 – Water making its own shadow

Lecture 2 – Protection from fire

Lecture 3 – Part I – Natural Spring

Lecture 3 – Part II – Feeling the ‘water jet’

Lecture 3 – Part III – The beginning of a river

Lecture 4 – Lighting Strike

Lecture 5 – Survey Departments Measurements

At Ella Rock Point, we were able to see all around us and the scenery was beautiful.

Namunukula Range

Little Adam’s Peak

At the start of the hike my father gave me ownership of his camera. During the hike he tried many times to encourage me to photograph wild mushrooms and other tiny plants which I refused to do as I was more interested in chatting with my Loku Amma & Loku Thatha. My father was not too happy about it and he photographed them himself. These are some of what he shot.

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However, I photographed a tree mushroom and he says I have scored 100/100 for it. Here it is…

My father calls this ‘Natures Bulls Eye’

Later we walked down to the railway track at Kithalella and walked along the railway track to Heeloya railway station. Here I observed a funny incident. A train that arrived at the station started pulling out of the station. Two ladies who were coming towards the station signaled to the driver to stop the train for them to get in. The moving train stopped for at least 5 minutes and waited for the two ladies to get to the station, buy their tickets and board the train.

We hopped a bus home.

I see this mountain from faraway almost every day but had not got a chance to climb it. My father had told me that the area was controlled by the army and we needed permission to go up there. He promised that he would one day find a way to take me up there.

In November last year my father was invited to join some of his friends to climb Piduruthalagala Mountain. He had asked them if I too could join.

The following day we went to Nuwaraeliya by vehicle and reached the army check point at the entrance to the forest. Although we had permission to walk to the top, the soldiers at the check point were reluctant to allow us to walk. However, my father’s friends made a few calls and then we were allowed to walk.

Although Piduruthalagala is the highest point of the country (2524m) the walk up the mountain along the road was easy. The distance to the top was 5.6km. Walking through the trees was interesting and as the weather was good whenever there were openings in the trees we could see beautiful scenery.

Adam’s Peak far way

Nuwaraeliya Town far below

Waterfall in the Jungle

Along the road there were some thorny bushes that had some wild berries. We picked some just to taste and I got the ripe ones.

Yammy

When we reached the top it looked like a town. There were lots and lots of buildings and antenna towers. Many more buildings were also being built.

We walked up to the top most point where the Survey Department has made a ‘Trig Point’.

2524m

North – South – East – West

However, as the mist had come down we could not see around.

After spending some time at the top we came back down the road in a vehicle and returned home.

You are embedded in my mind….

It was year 2001 and my first-ever train journey was to Diyatalawa with my AL class friends from Fort by 5.55am Podimenike Train. It really was a remarkable and unforgettable journey. We were on our way to do a project on Horton Plains and heading to stay at one of my friend’s place in Diyatalawa.

I was on the foot board the whole journey, highly excited, enjoying it to the max. We passed many things and stations along the way. But one thing in particular got embedded in my mind. That was “Great Western Station”. The entering onto the Station area was grand and I can still remember that day. I’ve been viewing that picture every now and then and couple years back came to know about the GW Mountain which is surprisingly the 6th highest in SL.

But it never occurred to me to do this till I joined Lakdasun (that has inspired me tremendously to achieve greater things) and heard that this could be done. At the Lakdasun gathering on 2nd of March 2013, helped me meet with lots of people with great experience.

I then came across Ashan’s report on GW and thought it would be grand if we could do this. However, it wasn’t not one of my priorities and been in the back of my mind all along. However, t suddenly dawned on me that it’s now or never. I casually suggested this to Harinda in April and he readily agreed. I didn’t wanna wait long and fixed it for first week of May. This was pushed back to second week coz of my beloved Meemure and Hasalaka trips and it turned out to be a hidden blessing as it rained very heavily in the first week.

We panicked and I was very worried. I kept calling Morgan (he’s also called Velli) and checking the weather and it was always raining. I decided to call it off if it kept going on like that and buying the train tickets was also delayed. However, to our great relief Morgan said the situation is getting better on 09 May. It was barely 3 days for the trip and we agreed to get the tickets and go anyway. Unfortunately all the sleeping berths had been booked and had to settle for 2nd class. If it rained we would abandon the hike and do something else like waterfall hunting around Talawakele.

10 and 11 May, the weather improved dramatically and I was beyond the point of getting cranked up. So on the 11th night around 7.30pm Harind joined me at the Fort station and after buying snacks and biscuits for the journey we got on board and were ready to venture into new heights.

General Information about GW.

• 6th Highest in SL. (2,212m – 7,257ft)
• It got its name Great Western from the English who ruled the up country, they named nearby places Somerset, Glassaugh, etc.
• Located right behind GW station with an elevation of about 748m (2,454ft).
• GW station is between Watagoda (from Col) and Radella (from Badulla) and has 5.01km and 3.4km in between respectively. (Good for a rail walk)
• From Colombo it’s 199km and from Badulla 93km to the GW station. Difficult to access by road. You can come from Talawakele to the nearby village where Morgan lives (about 1km away) and then walk from there. If you wanna do that, do check with Morgan.
• Don’t try this if it’s raining coz the path is very slippery. The earth is soggy and the underbrush is so thick. The climb is too challenging, at times near vertical and there are very little footholds and branches to cling onto.
• The trail can be separated into 4 parts. It’s about 6-8km in total. Strenuous trail and shouldn’t be attempted without a guide.

1. GW station to the Trail head along the railway track (about 1.5-2km). There are steps built into the mountain to a Kovil on your left hand side just before an Iron Bridge. You can start your trail either along the Kovil steps or near the Bridge.
2. From the Railway line to the beginning of the Forest Patch through the Kovil. About 1.5km
3. Through the forest patch to the top (about 2-2.5km)
4. Along the top to the summit (about 1.5km)

We had nice and long chat about our adventures and planned a few too for the near future. We decided to get some shut eye around 10.30pm. However, the poorly maintained carriages and seats offered little comfort. My seat was broken and it felt as if sitting on a rock. The whole carriage was reeking of the lavatory which was stinking so bad I found it difficult to breathe let alone sleep. This was my worst experience on a train journey (I’m a frequent traveler) and had jitters about the hike. Harinda managed to get short bursts of shut eye (just like his short breaks along the hike ).

From Nawalapitiya, it was on a crawl due to the mist. It was so thick you could have cut them like cheese and have. This delayed our arrival time by good 1.5hrs. We reached GW by 4.15am and I was glad to get out of that stinky rat hole. Morgan had informed the station of our arrival and they helpfully opened the rest room and let us stay till the morning. Anyhow, the chilly cement benches offered little consolation and I decided to sit and wait till the dawn. By 5.30am, it was light enough and I got out immediately and came out despite the cold. It really was like heaven. They say that you can see the Adam’s peak from the station but the thick mist wouldn’t have any of it.

We started snapping away and a dark cloud was heading our way making us skeptical. However, after about 15mins, it went away as if seen our concerned looks. Morgan arrived with hot coffee and packed breakfast. We washed and changed into combat gear and went away around 6.30am.

The map I found

Just arrived…

Early morning, couldn’t wait anymore

Lovely station…

She’s watching us

It really is Great

Here comes the Nawalapitiya bound train from Nanuoya

Good old German W3 engines at work

Step 1 – GW station to Trail Head

The mist got thicker but Morgan predicted good weather, free of rain. We passed a small but abandoned hut which had built for a watcher man. The reason being, rocks had fallen from the mountain onto the rail track last year closing the line to Badulla for full 48hrs. They even have put up a notice there. Army’s demolition team had had to blow those rocks away and clear the path.

We reached the trail head, about 7.00am where whitewashed steps leading up to a Kovil is clearly visible on the left hand side. This is just before an Iron Bridge, where there’s another trail. The trail through the Kovil is relatively easier but longer whereas the one off the Bridge is difficult but somewhat short. We obviously had no debate over which one to take. (You guessed right, the easy one )

Flowers at large at the station

So cute

Never ending penchant for the flowers

Some more

Still going strong, coz made in England

Mist hung thickly

Walking to the starting point

Fine Pine forest

Specially when it’s raining real hard

Where the rocks had dislodged

Rocks which were blasted by Army…

Iron bridge before the kovil steps…

The fellow I went with…

Step 2 – Trail Head to Forest Patch

Up we went along the steps, and according to Morgan there are nearly 200 steps up to the Kovil. It’s been built after a promise (in Sinhala, Bharaya). It goes like this:

Nallusami was a KP (a sub Superintendent) in one of the estates and once he had got lost on the path of the mountain. He got panicked and reached the point where now the Kovil is built. (It used to just a small worshipping place). According to the story, he’d found his way like a miracle and to show his gratitude to God Paththini, he’d promised to build steps right up to the Kovil from the railway line. He did build them and overtime, the villagers have renovated them.

Morgan did the rituals at the Kovil and as always, I asked for good weather (which was duly granted) and having filled our containers to the brim with the spring water near by, we went along the foot path up. The going was not to bad coz the path was clear and Harinda took his nice and short 30-second breaks. Along the way, we found the hooves’ marks of the stags on the earth and Morgan said they might’ve just crossed the path. We also saw the markings where jungle fowls had been digging for their breakfasts and wild boars for their previous night dinner. The mist kept coming in keeping the sunlight away (which was a blessing) and the chill in the fresh air kept us going.

About 1km away, I was hungry and good wait no longer for breakfast. We sat on the path and had a sumptuous (in my terms) meal of hot hot Roti, mouth-watering Lunu Miris and Dhal. Cream crackers dipped in Dhal and Lunu Miris was just the icing on the cake. Harinda kept hiding the cheese for the summit. We got our things ready, not leaving even a scrap of paper behind and got back on track. Soon we entered into the thick forest and it was dark inside the forest.

Entrance to the Kovil

The 200 steps

Our super-duper guide Morgan

Paththini Kovil

Overlooking the lush greenery

Morgan doing the rituals

Giving us blessings

Tea estates below

Gorgeous

Another 30-second break

Misty tree

Stags’… just been there

Harinda is catching up

Horton plains like

Breakfast… delicious

Mini train coming to taste our BF

Gosh, now the hard bit

Step 3 – Climbing up to the top.

Things got more and more difficult the sooner we reach into the steep bit of the climb. Morgan said that the forest department people based in N’Eliya doesn’t visit the forest up in the hill. They apparently, just come by train and walk about the tea estate below and go back to their warm offices not caring what’s happening up in the hills. We saw so much evidence to prove that wood choppers had been busy at work. So many trees had been cut down and we came across many not-so-big tree trunks yet to be taken away. Some had been left to rotten so that they can be used as firewood.

Morgan said that the forest department officers arrest anyone who’s even trying to get some firewood in the tea estates below saying that they destroy the forests but not really looking where it actually happens. They are barking up the wrong tree.

After sometime, we came across a funny looking tree with white trunk, but to see the bark had been gnawed by stags. I was very curious coz they had very greedily taken it clean off. Just out of my never ending curiosity, I just picked at a remaining piece and chewed it. Wow, it tasted nice, mixture of sugar and peppermint with a touch of bitterness to it.

I kept chewing it like chewing gum most of the up hill journey. Then we came to the most difficult part with a very steep climb through thick bushes, rocks and slippery earth. However, climbing up is easier compared to coming down. It’s just scary. Once the steep got too much for us, Morgan had to climb first and give us his rope to support ourselves up. Same way we came down but Harinda nearly went all the way to the GW station, but managed to hold onto the rope bruising his arm.

Photo taking opportunities were hard to come by coz we sometimes had to use our arms as well to support us. Harinda kept switching himself to 4WD (all four limbs). After a lot of huffing and puffing we were finally on the top but the journey was far from over. We had another long way to walk across to the summit at the other end about 1.5-2km.

Looks like Batu

So many artistic things

Not edible

Katu Imbula?

Dead ones

Stag’s favourite meals, barks of this tree

No artist can match this..

Close or far, she’s great

More arts of the Mother Nature

Still misty…

Harinda is showing the damage done to the forest

Very difficult going

At last, reached the top… plenty more to walk

Step 4 – Walking across to the Summit

We reached a rock surface and were surprised how high we actually were. We got a great view of (still partially covered by the mist) Radella Broadcasting tower, Nanuoya and beyond that Piduruthalagala Mountain range with the telecommunications towers, Hatton-Nanuoya road via Thalawakele. It was such a great panoramic view.

Moving further on, we saw the rock forming the summit of the GW and about 100m below we saw kinda Hawk or an Eagle perching and screeching. We managed to take a few pics of the fellow (pity didn’t have about 40+ zoom on me) but my 20X plus digital zoom got me a passable pic. I had to use Harinda’s back instead of the tripod to eliminate the shakiness at the extreme zoom range.

Passing a makeshift Kovil, only with a Trishul which had been dug out by the searching boars. Just beyond there was a tree with fertilizer bags hung like flags. Morgan said many think that this is the summit and turn around but not so. Then it was the camping site and as I said above, there were only charred remains of wood remaining, no plastic or papers strewn about. So whoever did the camping had done a tremendous job (hoping they didn’t throw anything over the rock to the bottom) and hats off to them.

Just through a thick bush, we reached the summit. Some team from Kandy had gone and put up a flag not at the correct place but Morgan had put it up near the actual summit. There is hardly any room to sit and wind is fierce. Be very careful coz the edge is always wet due to mist and deadly dangerous.

We had our remaining breakfast, more Roti, cheese and cream crackers with the precious Lunu miris and dhal. It took us exactly 4hrs to reach the top (by 10.40am) and decided to stay till 11.30am hoping the mist would clear enough for a few pics. Around 11.10am, I decided it’s pointless to wait anymore but Morgan reassured it will clear away. About 11.15am, the mist cleared even though partially, and we managed to get a few pics and turned around.

Mist was so stubborn…

Tea estates below…

Grand pic

Jutting out of the rock… love those colours

He’s the one who was making noises all the time

Know the fellow?

Ready to fly away

This is towards Radella

Rock formation of the summit… more to go

Life on the rocks…

Vividness

Lovely

Morgan was constantly on the phone with the station checking the train times

The three musketeers

This is marked as the summit, but not actually… further more to go

Camping site

The flag carried by a previous group but had hung at the wrong place, Morgan had put it here

Mist enveloping the surrounding and she was so cool with drops of water

Not to be taken away…

Love that water on the leaves

Finally a breakthrough – GW station

Village further on

Morgan’s village, the Kovil in the middle

The ground beyond Morgan’s village

More buildings and villages nearby

Railway and its quarters below

Mist went away completely

The edge is slippery and earth is very loose….

There comes Udarata Menike bound for Colombo

Passing the quarters below

Disappearing

Panoram

Coming back….

Along the way, we stopped by again coz Morgan wanted to show us the Colombo bound Udarata Menike snaking its way to the GW from Nanuoya station. We heard the train but the mist still very stubbornly refused to go away. However, as the train appeared at the bend, the mist went away and we managed to take pics of the new Chinese S12 train. Light blue was very prominent against the green background and it’s longer with 8 carriages and two either side engines than the good old M6 with 6 carriages. However, Morgan predicted those new Chinese ones will be outta service in 10 years…

Then it was time to take on the horrendous downhill journey and Harinda used his rock sliding skills to the max. He made new inroads and paths were cleared as if by magic. He said “I wish I could fly to the GW station from here” and I wanted to help him with my Kung-Fu and replied that I could maybe send him right into Morgan’s village and with luck he’d end up at the Station. He simply wouldn’t hear any of it and trust my skills. Instead he used his own methods and after a strenuous journey we did the worst part and heaved a sigh of relief.

Walking back we came across the Stag-gnawed tree and I wanted another tiny piece of chewing gum. It tasted grand after the exhausting climb. I was relieved to get back to the open area and we heard the Badulla bound Podi Menike coming from GW and waited anxiously for her to appear. It was very clear as we were very close to the bottom and it was easy to point and shoot.

Came back to the Kovil, paid our respects for giving us good weather and making our journey a safe one, replenished our water bottles and was on our way back to the GW station around 1.30pm (It only taken 2 hours for the downhill).

Near the station, there was a butterfly beauty bathing in the sun. She said that she just returned from Adma’s peak and posed for a few pics for me. The workers were redoing the track changing the old sleepers at the station.

We were hoping to catch the 2.15pm train back to Colombo and there was a delay. We washed and had the delicious lunch brought to the station by Morgan’s wife. There was a dog (now you gonna wonder what’s so special about a dog, right?) and surprisingly his name was “Kema” (food). We gave him some of our lunch and when called “Kema” he responded. Funny things do happen.

Apparently, the delay got worse coz the M6 engine had failed at Nanuoya and they were waiting for a replacement from Nawalapitiya which was good 2hrs away. We didn’t wanna push our luck anymore instead took the Badulla train to Nanuoya around 4.00pm and then proceeded to N’Eliya. Fortunately there was an AC bus leaving for Colombo at 5.15pm and took it and reached Colombo around 10.00pm.

Well, that’s the story of the Mysterious girl of GW. She is so proud and wouldn’t let many people get close to her. She keeps her beauty hidden most of the time with mist. So should you ever to attempt her, don’t do anything to harm her beauty. She’s such a gorgeous mountain.

It was my first trip with Harinda (a Lakdasun member) and there’ll be plenty more coming in the future.

Sri & Hari de Great Western fairy tale ends here and do enjoy the pics…. Ask any questions…

Radella broadcasting tower

Abandoned Tea factory, they had tried to convert into a garment factory but not worked out

Wild boars are responsible for these…

Making new paths

Bidding us farewell

Don’t wanna leave her

The other peak…

There goes Podi Menike towards Nanuoya

Up close, I guess the guard is looking at us

10 carriages in all

Morgan leading the way…

The path you have to take across the mountain to the summit… easier shown than done

She just said Hi…

Told me just returned from Sri Pada

Happily agreed to pose for a pic for me

Side view, see the Butterfly Walk

Signals not ready yet

Walking the final bit…. legs screaming at me

Changing the old sleepers

Hard work

Ready to weigh?

Tiny tiny birds eveywhere…

The first ever pic of a Maina, had to go all the way to GW to take it

Here’s the fellow with the funny name “Kema”

“Darling, don’t look, they are taking our pics”

08.30am Badulla train coming in to GW

This is the only old engine at work now due to the introduction of Chinese S12

See ya later guys…

Lady… see you later….

Green = ambalangala, Red = maligatenna, Blue = ponds, Purple = weheragala, Black = cave, Orange = rassa muhuna – Click Map to Enlarge

Download Google Earth Trail Map

According to Folklore During the war between Ravana and Rama, both Rama and Lakshman were hit by powerful arrows to fall unconscious and to bring them back to life Hanuman was instructed to fetch lifesaving herbs from Himalayas. Hanuman went to the Himalayas, rooted part of the hill and brought it as he was not able to identify the lifesaving herbs. Parts from the hill fell on five places in Sri Lanka, Rumasala, Dolukanda in Hiripitiya, Ritigala, Thalladi in Mannar and Kachchativu in the north. Archeologically the mountain range has received some importance because of the well-known Arankele monastery been located at the base of it. Regarding the geometry it’s about 2km in length and 0.5km in width with a vast intermediate zone forest reserve on top of it. First time I came across this mountain range was when I visited Wellagala at Wariyapola and few months back while we were on top of Yakdessagala I noted this range for the second time. And the temptation was exclaiming to uncontrollable levels since then. Conquering unique mountain peaks has been my passion and day by day my list has been growing and growing with occasional tick offs. This time Anupama was the man who bought me the solution; he had already climbed up 3 times but was generous enough to join me this time too. Other than Anupama and his friend Dinusha my friend Harinda also joined me in this adventure. Harinda and my self-arrived at Kurunegala at around 7am by bike and bought some bread and dhal for lunch and together with Anupama we went towards Hunupola on Hiripitiya road where we met Dinusha and our guide Kumarasekara.

We started climbing from an abandoned rock quarry where huge square rocks cut by machines could be found. According to locals some Indian guys have done treasure hunting in large scale with heavy machinery. Next we came across few abandoned “kuti” which were built few years back when Dolukanda was a very famous place of worship for Sri Lankans. The initial stretch was through a relatively flat area but within no time we were starting to ascend uphill. The undergrowth was not much but since the area had received some showers on the previous few days it was enough to make things bit slippery. Suddenly the climb got steeper and more pit stops were a must and our guide Mr Kumarasekara was staring at us because we were crawling at a snail pace compared to him! On the way we came across few medicinal plants which is the most unique feature of this forestry and Harinda managed to root off few accidentally . After about 1hour and 45 minutes of climbing we came to the base of Ambalan gala and after tackling the last rock we were on top of it with a smile on our tired faces

gloomy morning at dolukanda

treasure hunting done by indians in large scale(according to locals)

entering the forest

abandoned sakman maluwa

off we go

may kollo nam ada ena patak naha

try and un tie it

harinda plucking huge trees

coconut!

then it got steeper

leading the way

finally on top of ambalam gala

Ambalan gala is a bare rock located on the edge of the mountain and at a center location. There was a Buddhist flag post on top of it waving in proudly signifying the importance of this place. At this location one can enjoy a 180 degree view towards Wariyapola and Kurunegala but since the cloudy and misty nature on that morning we couldn’t appreciate much of the landmarks. Some landmarks we noted were Alagalla, Athgala, Mawathagama peak, Anda gala, Kuruminiyagala, Yakdessagala range, plenty of paddy fields, Dolukanda temple at the base, Wariyapola, Hiripitiya side, new Deduru oya reservoir and few lakes. We spent about 30 minutes on top of the rock enjoying the stunning scenery before we decided to enter the huge forest patch to explore around.

it was gloomy towards kurunegala

dolukanda temple and its pond at the base

raising the fallen flag

kurunegala region

paddy and coconut together

Yakdessagala range

wow	towards wariyapola

expecting rain

started clearing off a bit

time for a panorama

wonder what is this

ambalan gala

ideal place for a team pic

Though we thought it was already done and we could return early Kumarasekara mama and Anupama listed out some interesting areas worth visiting and from here on it was a never ending walking session on the top of the 2km long mountain range. We got in to the forest which was very shady and cool and within no time reached Maligathenna which might have been an ancient castle according to the locals. There were plenty of fallen pillars covered with moss and been Camouflaged with the greenery while few pillars were still standing tall like tree barks. Also there were rock walls here and there creating platforms and borders indicating that this was once a prosperous kingdom of a king. We also came across a huge “katarama” on a rock used to divert water from one place to another. This archaeological site had gone through the devastating illegal excavation process just like other locations in the island.

in search of maligatenna

Dummala

fallen pillars of maligatenna

treasure hunters have done their part

no this is not a well

more pillars

drainage system

a rock wall

remains from a different era

After exploring the ruins we set foot towards the other end of the range an on the way we came across a very rare “Wanaraja”plant which has a medicinal importance. There were other plants with medicinal value showed by Kumarasekara but I’m unable to recall any. Been so rich with medicinal plants Dolukanda might have some connection with Hanuma’s story just like Ritigala and Hakgala. Next we reached the famous rock ponds called Kalu diya pokuna, Dunukei pokuna and etc these are said to be found full even during droughts. This was an ideal place for us to have a rest under the shade and have a sip of jeevani to replace the lost minerals. Next we came across Watekei pokuna which was covered with plenty of Wetakei bushes hence the name.

life on life

barks were decorated

more mushrooms

Wanaraja

my favourite

Kalu diya pokuna

reflection

Kasi pethi (Panam pethi)

wetakei pokuna

On the way to Weheragala and not so far away from it we came across the trail used by villagers of Doluwa linking up with the main trail. By the way Wheragala got its name because of the huge ancient sthupa located on it and was vandalized by treasure hunters as expected. Weheragala been on the opposite side of the rock produces a different view compared to Ambalan gala and there is a very nice view point close to it where one can enjoy again a 180 degree panoramic outlook towards Ritigala, Arankele, Kibulwana reservoir, Dolukanda lake Ambokka and Mathale areas. This point seems to be the highest place and the drop towards the base of the rock was too scary to have a look even.

demarcated path

ancient pagoda at weheragala

gloomy scenery from weheragala

kibulwana reservoir

Hiripitiya town

doluwa side

Pano towards arankele

next observation point

dolukanda reservoir

wow	mondanocks of wayamba

phew the drop (this is the highest point)

Ritigala and Galgiriya can be seen

towards Rassa muhuna

We continued along the edge of the mountain through the forest cover and came to our next pit stop which is the Hulang Kapolla and its beautiful cave. This is a very dangerous but yet fascinating place and at some months a monk resides in this “kutiya”. There was a bed used by the monk and few saucepans used by visitors who spent the night in this non drip ledged cave. We decided to have our afternoon meal which was Bread and dhal while enjoying the scenery towards Arankele from the cave. This cave also was not spared by visitors who were muttish enough to scribble their names on the rock.

hulang kapolla

the cave which a monk used

view from the cave

vandalized

the view from our lunch table

the rock looks like pasted

ambokka got cleared off a bit

Rassa muhuna

ambokka peaks through the gap

Next we wanted to get to the last view point which is called “Rassa muhuna” because of its appearance like a devils face. It could be appreciated properly from Hiripitiya area according to the locals but we had to satisfy our selves with a different view. En route we came across another cave where a monk once meditated keeping dead human corpuses. To get on top of the Rassa muhuna we had to crawl along a bark of a tree and it was totally worth it because we enjoyed a good 270 degree view and at that moment the sky also had decided to clear of a bit to produce some stunning scenery towards Kala oya side. Galgiriya kanda and Ritigala were seen far away while Arankele was at the base of the rock. After enjoying some breathtaking scenery we decided to return back and for that we used a different route.

seems like some one has roasted some meat here

climbing along a fallen tree

on top of rassa muhuna

gala pita gala

the sky cleared off

arankele

Yakdessagala again appeared to our visual fields

towards kala wewa side

ambokka

very tempting

Ritigala side

i was on top of that peak few months ago

wow again

pano towards wariyapola

pano towards arankele

After getting to the opposite side of the rock we continued along the rocky area known as Kalu gala and came across an area covered with Bowitiya bushes and it was like Horton plains on top of Dolukanda for us. Finally we reached Ambalan gala where we rested a bit before starting to descend.

tackling kalugala

dolukanda bowitiya plains

on the way scenery

treasure hunting continues

the dry forest in the center of the mountain

alagalla and mawathagama peaks

last pano for the day

now it seems cleared off

pride

While descending I sprained my knee joint which was a nightmare for me and from there onwards I had to crawl down slowly without bending my left knee as possible. While I was tackling with a sprained knee Harinda was rooting up few huge trees and producing some chuckles in our minds ha ha ha… If Hanuman was a live he would have come in search of Harinda and asked him to pay for the damage:-D. Anyway it was unintentional and descending is always a problematic when it’s too steep. We ended up finally at Kandagoda RMV which is located at the base of the mountain. It seemed to be an ancient temple with a huge caved image house with a drip ledged inscription. After getting back to the village house where we halted our bikes, we were served with a glass of sweet orange juice by the owner which was like “Amurthaya” for us and not so far away we got a hot Belli mal drink and a piece of papaw from another villager which was like medicine for our tired souls. After thanking Kumarasekara mama we went to Dinushas place and had a wash before we departed, to experience a continuous shower until we reached Hettipola. Harinda was kind enough to drop me off at Chilaw and return back towards Colombo to end our one day adventure at historical Dolukanda. Thanks for reading!

getting down

last moment captures

kandegoda RMV

the inscription

good bye dolukanda

This was a sudden decision taken before two days and we left Gampaha around 5.00am and came to Southern highway via Kottawa.

It’s 6.10 am on southern Highway

From Pinnaduwa outlet we came to Udugama and reached Kanneliya Mount Resort around 08.30 am. After a quick breakfast we walked towards the park entrance, which is only 300 meters away. Vishan, our guide was waiting for us.

On the way to Kanneliya entrance

On the way to Kanneliya entrance

We visited following places

1. Cave 2. Anagimala waterfall 3. Giant Creeper 4. Narangas Ella 5. Navada Tree

Entire hike is 14 KM and approximate time is 7 hrs.

Forest Department Dormitory

Entrance to forest

Sri Lankan Kangaroo Lizard(පිනුම් කටුස්සා)

Wal Midi(වල් මිදි )

Giant Spider

We turned from main trail towards the cave. This cave is the natural habitat for certain frogs and bats. I am clueless about them and they were named by Vishan, our guide.

Entrance to the cave

වක රැලි මැඩිය

සයගිලි මැඩියා (සයගිලි = six fingers)

කිරි වවුලා

Turn off to Anagimala fall

Observation center at turn off to Anagimala fall

Anagimala fall

Giant Creeper (යෝධ පුස්වැල)

Thereafter we walked further along the main trail towards the next destination, Narangas Ella. On the way our guide Vishan suddenly spotted a Green Vine Snake (ඇහෑටුල්ලා ) aiming at a lizard

Just caught

Vishan held the snake to capture some closer views which I didn’t like, but couldn’t resist

Gulp………… Gulp…………….

Last bit

Then we set off towards Narangas Ella where we had to cross several streams.

Bandura(බාඳුරා)

Had to across many streams(Nanikitta Dola)

Finally came to Narangas Ella

Narangas Ella

We spent about half an hour at Narangas Ella enjoying the cool and calm surroundings and headed back on the same route.

Thalkossa in crystal clear water at base pool

Prawns

On our way back we turned towards the Nawada Tree, the final destination. This tree is 250 years old with a circumference of 16.5 feet.

On the way to Nawada Tree

Giant Nawada Tree

Then we came to the resort and after lunch proceeded to Duli Ella. It’s 26 KM from Kanneliya through Hiniduma, Thawalama and Neluwa. Duli Ella consists of three parts and you can easily climb as there are concrete stairs all the way up to the top.

Lower part of the fall

Middle part of the fall

Upper part of the fall

Base Pool of the upper part

Next day morning we left Kanneliya mount resort and on our way to Pinnaduwa entrance of Southern Highway, turned at Amalgama junction and drove another 6 KM to reach another vital place, Hiyare conservation centre.

This is an animal hospital conducted by a group of dedicated volunteers, who are doing an exceptional job, in collaboration with the Wild life department. One must personally visit this place to observe the commitment of these volunteers, doing their best yet with the limited resources.

They provide medical treatment for injured wild animals. These animals are treated, rehabilitated and released back into the wild. This place is also shelter for several baby animals who have lost their parents. These animals are looked after until they become fit enough to release to the wild.

Hiyare tank

Conservation Project

There were few birds with burnt legs and feathers following electrocution while they were trying to perch on road side power lines.

This poor eagle will be a permanent resident at Hiyare. Both legs were burnt, cannot move

Another victim of electrocution with Minor injuries

Can you hear the cry of this yelling monkey

About to release, leg wounds are healed

Adult porcupine awaiting release

Still under treatment with minor injuries

There were few orphaned baby animals who had lost their parents.

Please find my mother

Cute baby ‘Mee minna’

This bat was brought by a villager, found fallen along the road

This baby porcupine was very playful

When we came out there were two Giant squirrels.

Had already hacked off half of a jack fruit

There is a plant nursery at the corner of the same premises, maintained by Wild life department. Most of them are medicinal plants and we got few plants free of charge.

Plant Nursery

This place needs some help from people who are concerned about the well being of wild

animals. They will certainly do a better job with some assistance from public.

Red = summit Green = camp site – Click Map to Enlarge

It was another random weekend coming up and I needed to go somewhere as usual and suddenly out of nowhere the name Thoppigala popped out from one of those deep nerve plexus and incidentally the coming Sunday was 19th May which was the date where the president declared the end of the civil war 4 years back (that is 2009/05/19). It was the ideal occasion to hoist a flag on top of the famous Baron’s cap which was the last stronghold of the rebels in the East. More information on Thoppigala war will be brought up later in this report.
On the 18th of May I took a bus from Monaragala to Potuvil planning to visit few places while reaching my night resting place at Batticaloa to start an early morning climb with my Lakdasun friends on the next day! After getting to Potuvil I had to hire a trishaw to get to the eastern most point of Sri Lanka which was Sangaman kanda and the trishaw guy agreed for a reasonable fair. The road towards Sangaman kanda goes through Komari bridge which is a place worth a photograph and the rest of the ride was through the Komari forest patch which was indeed interesting though we didn’t come across any elephants. Just before reaching the junction at Sangaman kanda with a kovil I came across an archaeology site right by the road. One can easily identify the fleet of steps on the rock leading towards the ancient pagoda on the rock. So it was time for a bit of exploring. I somehow came across two drip ledge caves and few remnants of a building and it seem to be an ancient monastery. The sad story was department of archeology has not put up a black board even to this road side heritage point. Passing the ruins site there is tarred road leading towards the coastal line which we decided to proceed on.

komari paddy fields

beautiful sea side fields

stunning view from komari bridge

drying its feathers

kadala boys were all along the road

ancient steps

towards the pagoda at sangaman kanda

remnants of the pagoda

drip ledge cave at sangaman kanda

more ruins

they were in 100′s

We continued few km’s on it until we reached a 3 way junction where a gravel road branched out with an acute angle to the left. This path is 4WD road until the Sangaman kanda light house and can be managed with caution with a car but there will be some scratch marks left behind. After tackling this part we reached a cabana where we parked and walked 50m to reach the Eastern most point of SL. The said light house is now just a pile of concrete which serves no purpose other than been a landmark. After hanging around a bit we returned back to the Sagaman kanda where I had an argument with the money minded trishaw guys who doubled his first said price saying the road conditions were bad and etc. please do note Potuvil trishaw guys are extremely money minded since they deal with foreigners.

unique way post showing us the directions

Eastern most point in SL

life on sand

indian rollar posing

thinking about the next meal

at sangaman kanda kovil

i bought that siyambala bag

From Sangaman kanda I took a bus to Akkareipattu and it was a pleasure to the eyes to witness the lush green paddy fields of Thirukkovil and Akkareripattu and at the backdrop seeing the mountain ranges of Damana and Ampara area was the icing on the cake. Next stop was Akkareripattu and it was almost close to 4.30pm, so after having a yummy Saruwath I decided to hire a trishaw again to get to Oluvil light house. The sun was starting to say good bye already and the light house was also locked up and no one was around other than the locals enjoying the evening breeze at the beach. After snapping around a bit I asked the trishaw guy to drop me off at a bus halt where I spent about one hour witnessing a superb sun set over the paddy fields. At around 6.30pm I got in to a jammed packed Jaffna – Akkareipattu bus and was lucky enough to get a seat until Batticaloa. Tiredness and hunger made me go no more than 100 feet from where I got off. And the Sunshine fast close to Kallady bridge was like a blessing for me. After having dinner I went in search of a rest house and the police guys directed me towards a budget place close to Kalladi bridge which was indeed my night resting place.

perfect sun set at oluvil

oluvil light house at dusk

lined up

the setting sun

waiting untill the fish sing at Kallady

Next day early morning I decided to walk towards the Kallady beach which was 5 minutes away. But it was very cloudy and I was bit disappointed with since it ruined my sun rise. Finally when the sun decided to rise up a huge evil cloud resembling a devil was covering it (see the pic its really evil looking) somehow the mighty sun tore it a part and lit up the shores of Kallady.

halted after a night of fishing

some of them prefers sleeping on the beach

gloomy but colourful

slow shutter had worked a bit

flames of the horizon trying to win a battle

wow

the straight line

The evil cloud who gulped up the sun

on fire

here she comes

lighting up

ok the battle was won by….

wow	the family who came to witness the sun rise

returning back

well maintained kalladi beach

remnants of tsunami

the famous kalladi bridge with the new one close by

batticaloa ladies on the cycles

with the classical fishing hats

Batticaloa dutch fort

fishing competition below kalladi bridge

After getting back to the main road my friends Kasun, Theshantha & Sheham did come and fetch me up from Batticaloa since neither of those racing Walachchenai buses stopped for me. After passing Chenkalady we reached Kiran where we had to take the road leading towards the western side. The road was motorable though it’s not tarred at some points. We had to inform the road block our intentions and proceed further through a marshy area and next a dry shrub forest. The area seems to have been developed a bit within these 4 years and people were back in their paddy fields doing what they know best! On the way the cap shaped peak started peeping over the tall trees and changed its shape continuously. We went passing the 232 brigade headquarters to reach the Thoppigala visiting center where we were greeted by the army officer who was supposed to show us around. His name was Sumith and was one of those nicest people one can have to show you around. He was humble and very helpful and I really do appreciate his service. We were straight away ready for business and the daunting cap with a sheer drop was our target. From the visitors center we drove about 1 km up to the base of the rock and started climbing along a well paved path.

first view of the target

Barons cap(Thoppigala)

the path

butterfly life

It was around 8.15am and though we thought it would not be that much difficult we were wrong. The initial climb was not so steep but with no time we had to take some pit stops and we were also feeling extremely thirsty with every step we took. Gosh it was not even 9am and the heat was unbearable, the army forces should have been awarded a special award for battling in these difficult conditions for more than a year. The last part was the sheer rock and the army has placed a new ladder to tackle this difficult part. After getting to the top we found some shade and rested for good 10 minutes before we proceeded towards the only tree found on the top of it which was a “Ehela” tree. We were chatting for around 30 minutes under the shade of it because we were too exhausted and couldn’t think of walking around. There is a communication tower and a pagoda build at least 10 years back. Also there was an ancient pagoda in ruins and the bricks fallen around been the only evidence of its past. My only concern was that since the place has been announced as a public attraction, people will be coming by bus loads and jumping around over this pagoda because of lack of awareness. I wish the military does contact the archaeology department and at least put up a fence around it.

the lake where the camp site is

Narakamulla LTTE base

one of those lakes

towards maduru oya side

more to go

the view from the rest point

the lake and the cultivation both in one snap

the steep path

side view

the drop

the past

the finat bit was steep

would you believe me that this beauty was found on top of thoppigala

the ancient pagoda is covered with grass on the summit

the famous comando mark

The army personnel will not allow anyone to disobey and they have put up a fence to limit such behavior. From one side the eastern coastal line can be visualized and on the opposite side it’s all about mountains of Baron’s cap reserve and Omanugala (Maduru oya) reserve. The officer showed us a mountain range where the last main base of the terrorist once stood. It was called Narakamulla and it is said they carried out all of their activities during the final stages of the eastern war from this camp and Thoppigala was the dual purpose base which reinforced the security of the main base. From the top of Thoppigala one can have a 360 degree view and that was an added advantage during the war. They even had heavy artillery installed on top of it and it was a really a difficult task to capture the main base of Narakamulla because of Thoppigala. Even now one could witness the damaged hill top by heavy artillery fire. We also identified Dimbulagala, Welikanda areas, Unnachchiya and many nearby tanks including Thoopigala lake. Once it was a deserted place but now one can witness lush green paddy fields around the base of the mountain. We also didn’t forget to raise the National flag and celebrate the freedom day before descending to get away from been barbequed. While getting down the metal ladder caused some problems because it was heated up. One should keep that in mind to try and avoid long contact with the metal bar and also be extra cautious because you might trip and fall. On the way to the base we also took a small detour to visit one of those caves where the rebels hid and attacked.

a near by lake

the mountain range

towards narakamulla

towards walachchenai

celebrating liberation

even they were feeling the heat

pano towards walachchenai

pano towards narakamulla and maduru oya

it was getting bit misty like

plenty of paddy

this is a nightmare not because of the hight but the heat

scenery while getting down

gravel road through the paddy fields

descending

one of those natural caves used by rebels

jackets let to decay

natural kochchi

After getting to the base all of us had a bath from the wash rooms and had some cool drinks from the canteen to refresh ourselves. The word called “Hacked” will describe our feeling more than any other words I guess. After resting a bit we had a tour around the visiting Centre where we were explained how the war in the east and Thoppigala area was conducted. They do charge 100/= from the whole group for the wash room and parking separately and also there are facilities for camping if someone wishes too. The camp site is near the lake and two army personnel will accompany you. They do charge 500/= per person and basic facilities are been supplied. For more information please contact them

Quote (Sunday Observer)

Thoppigala, also known as Baron’s Cap and Kudumbimalai, is a large rock standing at 350feet (100m) above sea level. The rock is surrounded by thick jungle and rocky terrain. And also have a number of natural caves

Fierce fighting erupted between the LTTE and the SLA at the final forward defense line (FDL) of LTTE, at their Beirut complex in Narakamulla, Thoppigala area between 22–24 June 2007. The FDL was fortified with 6 bunker lines and 3 minor camps. The LTTE did not vacate their positions due to SLA’s heavy barrage of artillery and tank gun fire. Finally, around 50 SLA commandos infiltrated the LTTE bunkers and killed 30 of them. Three LTTE cadres committed suicide. This series of events turned the tide of the battle of Thoppogala against the LTTE.

The fierce battle North of Narakamulla, in the Thoppigala area on 6 July 2007 morning, killed 6 Sri Lankan army personnel including an officer called Colonel Samantha Ranathunga, and injured 7, due to heavy mortar fire by the LTTE. The Sri Lankan military retaliated with artillery and aerial bombardment to control the situation.

After 13 years, the Sri Lankan military captured the final stronghold of LTTE in the East, Thoppigala (Baron’s Cap), on the morning of 11 July 2007, nearly after a year of military action.

the memorial

Thoppigala, Barons cap

heritage centre

demonstrations

an art work

how they fought

explosives used by the terrorist

read – Click Image to Enlarge

arial view

We left Thoppigala with some unforgettable memories and were glad that we had the opportunity to visit such a historically important place. We arrived at Batticaloa to have some lunch from Sunshine fast close to Kallady Bridge; I would like to recommend this place for the passing by travelers because of its tasty food and good service. After filling up our tummy’s we went towards Batticaloa light house and for our disappointment it was closed since April. Next we headed back towards Sangaman kanda via Akkareipattu and it was again a pleasure to the eyes. I was lucky enough to visit the eastern most point of SL on two consecutive days.

Batticaloa delta

plenty of shells

Batticaloa light house

Kattankuddy date trees grown on the main road and some had harvest

mountains of damana and maragalakanda seen far left

a lagoon at thirukkovil

beautiful country side

Sangaman kanda beach

for the second consecutive day i reached sangaman kanda

After arriving at Pottuvil we took the Lahugala route which was always a pleasure to travel because you are guaranteed to meet few jumbos. And guess what we met about five elephants having an evening munch. The dynamic lighting conditions at Lahugala tank produced some stunning scenery which served justice to the phrase “The best is always at the end” . I had to say good bye to my friends and get off at Monaragala to end this lovely expedition. I heard that they did travel 900km+ through 6 provinces and 9 districts within 24 hours. I think I missed that part of the journey

Thanks for reading!

elephants at lahugala

jumbo enjoying some the villus

lahugala country side

the perfect road

dream house

munch and munch

two of the jumbos at lahugala tank

perfect scenery

the road to heaven with few jumbos

close up

the tamed deer at STF camp lahugala

I suggested that we go to Thangamale and he said ok. My uncle also agreed to join us.

On a Saturday morning we went to Kinigama Railway Station to catch the train. Although we wanted to buy 2nd class tickets the person at the counter didn’t know the price of a ticket and as he did not have time to check we had to buy 3rd class tickets. When the train reached Bandarawela Railway Station we once again bought 2nd class tickets so that we could get seats. When we got in there were only few people.

Just passing Bandarawela (everyone seated)

Just passing Diyathalawa (jam-packed)

At Haputale our train had to wait for awhile until the ‘Night Mail Train’ from Colombo which was late reached Haputale. I heard someone saying that there had been an earth slip between NanuOya & Ohiya.

We got off at Idalgashinna……..

………… and started walking towards Thangamale when the train left

Talking about trains

After awhile we left the railway track and got on to the path that runs through Thangamale.

As it was after the rainy season the forest looked green and beautiful.

Maha Ratmal

Hana

Green…….

Green, Green……..

Water………….

Water, Water………

We saw many different kinds of moss plants

Moss………

Moss, Moss………….

We also saw many different kinds of mushrooms.

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Wild flowers were every where

I think this is a tree fern

The only butterfly I photographed

Although my ‘Boss’ tried to photograph this tiny ‘Gemba’ he could not do it properly

I heard a train coming from Haputale Railway Station. As I wanted to see it we stopped at a place from where we could see the railway track.

MY TRAIN !!!!!

When we came to the end of the path the mist settled down

Once we finished the walk through the forest we called my other uncle to pick us up and to take us back home.

Year and Month	May, 2013 (24th)
Number of Days	One Day Trip
Crew	8 (between 28-45 years of age; I’m of course not sure 100% about this ) – Sri and the Clan – Danushka and his wife (Thilini) and his friend (Harsha), Tony, Harinda and his two friends (Wuminda and Prince) and our driver Indika.
Accommodation	N/A
Transport	Hired Van (Mazda Bongo)
Activities	Hiking / Photography / Getting to know others
Weather	Excellent for hiking – (It was dark and gloomy and even drizzling at times but didn’t disturb our journey one bit)
Route	Kottawa -> Maharagama -> Pelawatte -> Peliyagoda -> Mawanella -> Gevilipitiya -> Bathalegala -> Dippitiya -> Aranayake -> Horawela Junction -> Arama -> Arama Raja Maha Vihara Mw -> Asupini Ella And return on Aranayake->Mawanella->Colombo Danushka managed to get the trail maps for both Bathalegala and Asupini Ella and they both are attached.
Tips, Notes and Special remark	Avoid rainy season for Bathalegala hike. It can be difficult and slippery at places. It can be really dangerous to be on top if it’s thundering as the whole area is open. So avoid staying up during thundering and lightning. Turn onto Aranayake from Mawanella town and keep an eye out for Gevilipitiya, turn to your right for Bathalegala. Keep checking with the locals and it’s not so difficult to find the road. You can go most of the way in a vehicle as the road is now paved with concrete. You will have to stop about 500m before the trail head as the road is not in great shape. Probably a vehicle with a bit more ground clearance can tackle this bit. However, it would be nice if you walk as much as you can, taking in the surrounding. The total length of the trail is about 1.5-2km. Surprisingly short but not so easy as you need to keep climbing from the very beginning. There is no flat terrain till the summit. There are no water sources on the top, so you’d best take your own. However, there’s a temple built on the summit with water and electricity in 1997 and still being used even though there was no monk when we visited and didn’t seem to be in frequent use. So not very sure about getting any from the temple. Camping is possible but the winds are very strong so you gonna need a lot of ropes to keep them on the ground. Anyway, we saw a hut (about 10X10) built just above the temple. So you can even stay there. You’ll have to clean it a bit though. To reach Asupini Ella, you have to get back onto Aranayake road and go past Dippitiya, Aranayake towards Horawela Junction. From Horawela, you road splits into two. One going straight and the other turns to the left towards Hemmathagama passing a bridge. People say you can use both roads to reach the falls. We took the left and went passing the bridge and reach Arama Raja Maha Vihara road about 1km away from the junction. Take this road (not in a good state but still can tackle if you drive carefully) and you will reach the Asupini Ella power plant (This is a private hydro power project). Adjoining is a footpath passing a house along the main pipe line that brings water to the power plant from the waterfall. According to the people at the house, you have to follow this all the way till you meet a dam (about 1-2km) and from there you can reach the fall from there. Unfortunately we made a cardinal sin by not asking them before we started. To our disappointment, we took the wrong path which branched off about 100m from the power plant to the right and got hopelessly lost. So keep checking with locals so you won’t have the same problem. Leeches [Leeches – Preventive Socks, Repellents and Treatments] may trouble you at the Asupini Ella trail, but we didn’t see any at Bathalegala. Bring back only the memories and loads of pics; nothing else.
Author	SriAbey
Comments	Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread Lakdasun Rangers on a Joint Venture – Bathalegala

There can’t be many people who haven’t been to Kandy along A1 or by Train, can they?
If there is, well I suggest you do it some time

The people who’ve been on either along the road or by train must have seen a gorgeous girlie from Kadugannawa towards Aranayake. She’s so unique and iconic; you simply can’t have missed seeing her. I’ve seen many people including myself, craning their necks out of the windows to get a better look at her.

She simply is irresistible. From far away, you see the similarity between her and Sigiriya. That’s why many call her “Little Sigiriya”. It’s been etched in my memory from the very first day that a closer look would be grand. So joining Lakdasun speeded things up for me. So much better, instead of a closer look, I wanted to climb her.

Note: Harinda was not happy about me calling all these mountains She/Her. What can I do? I always feel that way towards them. Fortunately Tony managed to convince him that was the best thing to do

So after the strenuous hike of Great Western (got a call yesterday that she misses me big time ), out of nowhere, Harinda suddenly suggested we take Tony with us on a hike. He’s someone who always comments on a trip report, encouraging us and we wanted to take him with us on a mild hike (according to Harinda) first. Not that he can’t do a strenuous one; we just wanted to get to know other members better, you know

When asked Tony, he very willingly agreed to and making things more interesting, Danushka too wanted to get on board with his wife. Sheham agreed as well as he hadn’t done Bathalegala before. Harinda got a couple of friends and we were ready to rock and roll. Danushka, Sheham and Tony messaged that they would be free on Vesak Poya day and Harinda and I too decided to give it a go as well.

Danushka arranged the vehicle (very reasonable rates, contact Danushka should you require the contact details) and everything was on course until 23rd evening when Sheham unfortunately got injured with his arm and had to pull out. Danushka filled in the vacant space with his friend Harsha, another Danushka-esque grand hiker and photographer.

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Trip Highlights:

1.  Bathalegala Hike
2. Asupini Ella – Unfortunately we took the wrong path and couldn’t get close to her.

Danushka picked me around 5.00am on 24th and we then proceeded to Pelawatte to pick Harinda and his two friends (seasoned hikers, Wuminda and Prince). We headed towards Peliyagoda to pick the man of the moment, Tony and he was all dressed up for the fancy-dress-parade and waiting impatiently for our arrival. So all 8 of us with our reliable driver Indika finally started hitting the accelerator along A1.

Tony insisted that he’s gonna do the trip report but I wouldn’t hear any of it. Under so much pressure, he had to give in. Harinda then chipped in and promised to give him a chance probably next time. You should’ve seen his sorry face and I almost felt like giving up writing.

One more important thing. If it was us travelling with own friends or maybe even relatives, we would’ve been chatting about some gossip or some other thing which is useless. But when we all got together, it was all like an encyclopedia had opened up on 4 wheels. We talked about Ravana and many legends related to him, nature trails, Knuckles, environmental issues, etc. and it was so interesting and we didn’t even know that we had reached Warakapola where we planned to have breakfast at Waahalkada. That’s what happens when like-minded people get together working towards a common worthy cause. Wuminda’s sharpness helped us slow down just in time.

It was busy inside but we managed to grab ourselves seats overlooking the adjoining river and the food was delicious but a bit expensive for our like. After about half hour, we set off again, the sky was dark and gloomy, however I was hopeful for good weather. Again, tummy full and armed to the teeth, we were back on road and started discussing what we are good at talking about: Nature. It was a privilege to have experience guys like Tony and Danushka whose input was invaluable.

Tony had brought us a map and he knew the roads really well and Harinda kept joking Tony’s second name was Road. We reached Givilipitiya and stopped at a shop to buy some more rations. Then Tony showed us how nicely we can see the rock from the road. I hurried out of the van and followed by Wuminda to get a better pic from far. There was a co-operative shop closed due to Poya and we took some great shots from there.

Then the help of locals we reached the Bathlegala turning and followed the concrete-paved road towards the trail head. About 500-600m before, the road was impassable in our van and we decided to walk up. Anyway it’s good if you do that coz you can see the surrounding and get a sense of the lives of those people.

As it was Vesak Poya day, all the entrances to the houses were decorated with coconut leaves (Gok Kola). We were surprised at first and someone even said it must be a funeral but when Tony asked a village person, we got to know the real reason. An interesting thing and to our joy, we saw a Dansala serving soft drinks with pieces of apple sprinkled on top along with good old Marie biscuits.

It was good timing as were already starting to get exhausted and we had our fair share and Harinda and Wuminda (It rhymes nicely) almost emptied the whole Dansala. Then it was time to do the trail and we kept going till we came to a rubber plantation where the track leads you to further up. There’s a notice put up on a rubber tree showing you the path.

Danushka won’t simply leave any stone, plant, insect, butterfly, etc. waiting patiently for a perfect opportunity. We went up led by Tony and soon entered a forest patch. It was thick overhead cover from various trees about 500m till we reach the steps built along the rock upwards. They even have put up a cable and it’s really helpful when climbing down.

Surprise, whenever I said “Boys, let’s make a move”, Tony was the first to react, raising his arm as if to show his presence. He even claims that he’s the youngest-looking father among his children’s parents (This couldn’t be independently verified due to immense pressure from the father himself).

Prince kept us going with his never-ending stories of various kinds from politics to nature. It was hilarious to hear that Prince been telling a mixture of few stories together and Tony had trouble making head or tail of them.

Another thing was Tony’s strong protest against colonialism and the names we inherited from them for which I fully agreed. We keep calling Torrington square for our Independence square and many other places we use those brutal and barbaric governors names. Thanks to Danushka, we learnt that Baker’s falls has a Sinhala name which is Gonagala falls. It’s a pity we still call that beautiful fall after the Elephant killer.

As a result Tony kept calling Prince, Kumara (translated version) and it was a hit and everybody started calling him by that name. Eventually he stopped responding if we call Prince. However, Kumara got shortened as the day went on and finally it was just “Mara” without Ku. It was all smiles and laughs all the way and we reached the summit before midday. By the way Tony hit it off with Prince and kept say that he’s a “Jolly Baduwak”.

The moment we hit the top, everyone turned themselves into Photographers, Models, Actors and various Hollywood characters as if in a trance. You can get a clear 360-degree-view from the top and I heard clicking noises nonstop. Believe me; you can’t be satisfied even if you take million pics. You wanna take more and more and some more.

The summit has a lone tree and you can reach either end by turning to your right and left about 100-200m to either end. After quick Biccie and water break, we chose the right path and followed it. We saw some remains of firewood, clear sign that some people had either cooked or camped there. It would be very difficult to fix a tent up there as the winds are extremely strong, but not impossible.

To my surprise, I saw a hut like brick and sheet structure and would’ve built as a shelter for the masons who were building the temple. It has about 20 feet hall with an open kitchen, toilets, stupa, bell and a Bo tree. There was also another path towards the bottom and apparently it leads to the other side of the village and must be the one the Monks use when they stay at the temple. I wanted to ring the bell but most said it would bring the people running but I couldn’t resist so decided to ring it quietly. After all it was Vesak Poya, most sacred of all for us.

Through the Stupa, we reached the edge of the rock and the view is Fascinating, Breath-taking, Mesmerizing, Awe-inspiring, Exhilarating, Stimulating, Tantalizing, Exciting, Elating, Pampering, Spirit-raising, Soul-lifting, Inspiring, Touching, Evoking, etc. etc. etc.

Gosh, I simply can’t describe it folks, really sorry about it. You gotta see it for yourself and you will know what I’m talking about. You can see hundreds of mountains in a range surrounding and you feel as if you are right in the middle of Heaven…

My (our) country is heavenly beautiful and incomparable. To make things more exciting, we could see the Asupini Ella far away towards Aranayake. I couldn’t wait anymore to go see her. Then after taking a little over a million pics (figuratively speaking), we decided to go to the other edge. All of a sudden out of nowhere there was black cloud and we could see it was raining in the mountains faraway, probably towards Dolosbage. We hurried into the shelter of the makeshift hut and while we waited, the wind kindly took the rain away and brought some gorgeous and teasing mist. We were enveloped in the mist and all of a sudden, it was as if staying at Horton Plains.

We soon started talking about World’s End and all and then and there decided to make another gathering there. The mist simply hung over a hilltop as if Icing on a Cake. Harsha simply won’t leave anywhere, but we were soon running outta time and pushed on to the other side. You can see more mountains and we even saw (If we’re not mistaken) Knuckles mountain range, Dolukanda, Alagalla, etc.

After a Cream Crackers and Cheese feast, and many more pics (almost a billion this time ) and we decided to big our farewell to one of the most Single Beauties in Sri Lanka.

After Breakfast at Wahalkada… (From Left – Sri, Hari, Tony, Harsha, Prince and Dana)

Every sight is a picture taking opportunity

There she is…

Just got off the van and ready to do the hike. Photo courtesy: Harsha De Silva

Tony showing us “Wal Veralu” – not edible though

She’s wondering who all these folks are…

Dana, name please…

Emerald Dove… (Thanks Dana)

Tony declaring open the Bathalegala Maha Dansala…

She was a member of the Dansal party…

Couldn’t help taking this…

Wuminda giving a hand to Prince aka Kumara – Photo courtesy: Harsha De Silva

Please adhere to this

Tony had to keep those plants aside so that I could take the pic… Trail head

Climbing from the beginning

Not used recently

Just got the first glimpse from up

2-minute break

Like a young girl’s hair…

Just a curious investigator

Inside the forest patch

Reached the base of the rock… steps are built

Very steep climb, thanks for those who built the steps

Simple wow

Stupa seen from the base of the rock…

More to come

The youngest member waiting impatiently for other members to appear

Thankfully we didn’t have to go from here… there’s a path onto the right… you could still do this. Haridna did it as a case study for Lakegala

Kept asking if we could do this one as well

You can view 360 degrees

Panorama 1

Panorama 2

Panorama 3

Just helping

No rains bothered us at all

Experimental shot

Just reached the top and this is the middle and you can go to either side for better views

We turned to the right

Can you see the remains of a woodfire

Heading towards the temple

The hut I. was referring to..

The hall of the temple

The Bo tree… I was glad that We could go to the temple on Vesak Poya day…

It says it all… – Click Image to Enlarge

Such a beautiful sight

The Buddha statue is in the below of the stupa

.

He was just off the Stupa…

Vivid colours

As far as my zoom can go… Asupini Ella seen from Bathalegala top

Wide angle of Rassagala

Panorama 4

Panorama 5

Panorama 6

Panorama 7, getting dark coz of the rain

Rain went towards Mawanellla

Pop colours

The mountain range linking with Dolosbage

Sri and the Clan – Photo courtesy: Danushka Senadheera

Yeah, we did it – Photo courtesy: Danushka Senadheera

Time to go see the other side

Icing on the cake?

Never ending mountains

Panorama 8

Panorama 9

Panorama 10

Reaching the other end… can see as far as you want

Harsha simply loved this

Sharp edge

Mawanella is somewhere there

Is that the Knuckles?

Bidding our farewll to Bathalegala Girlie…

We climbed down amid Prince and Tony’s funny stories and surprisingly Dansala was still going strong. They had apparently not gone bankrupt in the morning attack by us and we hit them again this time, real hard. 2 glasses of drinks turned into 3 and four and soon our tiredness vanished into thin air. Having said our thanks to those people, we came to the van to find out our driver is starving and quickly offered what’s left of biscuits and cheese.

Then it was time to go see Asupini Ella and along the way down we checked with village people and they said it’s possible to go closer to her. However, Harinda checked with a friend of his and got the news that the path is very difficult and not easy to tackle but village people said it was later built nicely.

Having regained our lost spirits, we reached Dippitiya town, passing onto Aranayake and reached Horawela Junction where the road is split into two. One goes straight while the other is taking a left turn via a bridge towards Hemmathagama. People said we could take either road and we chose the Hemmathagama road and followed it up about 1km till we reached Arama Raja Maha Vihara road and took it.

After another 500m-1km, we reached the Asupini Ella hydro power plant and had to walk from there. We were all very excited and went hurriedly. Dark clouds were hovering about threating to break loose at any minute, forcing Harinda to take his beloved umbrella.

We went past a house and for our sins, didn’t bother checking with any of them coz we had been checking all along the road and took our chances. There was a huge pipeline (about 3-3.5 feet in diameter) and we followed it about 150m till we reached a place where the path forked into two. One steadily going uphill along the pipeline with steps built and the other just a footpath heavily overgrown. We took the footpath and it was crazy going coz leeches started troubling us and Prince simply can’t bear them, neither could Wuminda.

We just kept going, repeatedly saying “Boys, let’s not give up now” which motivated Tony immensely. It was extremely tiring and we then reached a kind of dead end and realized that we are hopelessly lost. Yet Danushka got down towards the waterway and tried to make his way while Tony and the gang bringing up the rear along with Harinda too tried to pierce the thick bushes and find a way into the waterway without success.

Mercifully, mobile reception was good and we kept in touch with each other all the time. Then Danushka, Wuminda, Prince and I (the 4-man reconnaissance team) tried to go further uphill and link with the steps and the pipeline. It was impassable and we returned where Danushka tried to get down and the rest of the 8-man commando team was waiting for us.

Harsha said as a last resort, to get back down and search for a way up coz we were desperate to get glimpse of her up close. Harsha and I then got back down while the others waited for us but we couldn’t find a way up. However, Harsha noticed a house on the other side of the river bank and figured the other road which ran straight from Horawela junction must also lead to the falls. It was starting to get dark and the whole area was twilit and Harinda suggested we give it a go some other time.

Yet we didn’t want to leave our mission unaccomplished but had no other way to do it. Sadly we turned around determined to visit her again. We were amazed to see how quiet Prince has become due to his uneasiness (didn’t want to use “fear”) with leeches. He was kinda shell shocked and didn’t even attempt at small talk like he did in the morning. Wuminda too was suffering from the same disease but not so badly hit.

Harinda had taken some Alum with him and I saw both Princes legs like snow dusted with Alum. It was heart breaking and at the same time funny to see him asking Harinda “Harinda, what shall I do now?”. We then turned around and reached where the path split into two and Wuminda asked if we could go and have a peep around but I said no. We would come back for her one day. Prince wanted to come back on coming Sunday but when reminded him of leeches he quickly fell silent again.

We reached the house and got into conversation with an elderly lady and she said we should’ve taken the path with the steps. That will end up at a dam and we can cross it to get a better look of the fall. I got so frustrated, disappointed, angry, sad, etc. not to have followed it in the first place. All the others felt the same. We just washed ourselves quickly at her house and reached the van.

Suddenly, I remembered what Thomas Alva Edison had once said. When someone asked “You have failed so many times before inventing the light bulb”, he promptly replied:

“I didn’t fail so many times. I found so many ways that won’t work”.

Suddenly I felt better. He allegedly tried more than 1000 times without success before inventing the bulb yet didn’t give up till he invented it.

I felt the same way. We didn’t fail to reach the falls; we just found a route that won’t take you to the falls.

Next time, we are not gonna take anything for granted. We gonna check our way all the time and I promised myself that I won’t rest till I see my dear Asupini Ella up close.

We left in the van and suddenly Tony wanted it to stop coz he’d got a better view of the falls from the road. We decided to do our best and take pics of her as best as we could coz we had two of the best DSLR cameras with experienced photographers in Danushka and Harsha. They set up the tripod and we took dozen or so pics of her and they came out grand.

What a consolation for our tired limbs and hurt minds. We then took the Aranayake road to Mawanella and along the way stopped at a Belimal Dansala and the jiggery served was tasty. Prince kept asking for Kadala all the time and little did he know that he wish was about to be granted. As soon as we passed Mawanella, we came across a Kadala Dansala and Tony went and asked for 9 bags of them and we enjoyed it thoroughly coz we hadn’t had a proper lunch.

Then reaching Kegalle, there was a restaurant called “Champa Bakers” and their food was fresh, tasty and very reasonable. So if you wanna have a decent meal around Kegalle, that’s the place. It’s on Kandy main road and you can’t miss it.

After a lot of traffic jams, we finally reached Peliyagoda and dropped off the youngest member of our group. (Your guess is as good as mine ). Then one by one we all got off and reached home.

So that’s it folks. Another of my fairy tale which is woven around a real story. It was great fun with the fellow Lakdasun members and we all got benefitted from each other’s knowledge.

Sri and the Clan de Bathalegala comes to an end… Hope you enjoyed it as much as I did writing it.

Cheers…

P.S. Harinda was actually gonna suggest a new name (“Bathalayage Bathalegala Sancharaya”) but he later changed his mind coz there were many more members and only one Bathalaya.

The notice put of by Sabaragamuwa Provincial Council… but afterwards no clear signs to follow… Photo courtesy: Thilini

This notice is there when you turn left from Horawela Junction passing the bridge then take the right soon as you pass the bridge Photo courtesy: Thilini

Rassagala where Asupini Ella originates

Asupini Ella Hydro Power Plant entrance

Main building

Power House

The footpath along the perimeter of the power plant

We initially tried to follow the river upwards but couldn’t make it

Looks like a nice bathing place

Water way coming from Asupini ella and joins Maa Oya…

Entering the path along the huge pipeline

The pipeline runs all the way to the top where a dam is built to block the water… you gotta follow her

Harsha, Prince and Thilini trying to figure out the path

The track forks into two here. One running with the pipeline and the other a right turn… for our bad luck, we thought of taking the footpath on the right and paid dearly for it

This is where Danushka, Harsha and I got down in a desperate attempt to go uphill and get a close look of her

It has a nice pool but not sure if it’s safe for bathing

I was franctically trying to go up

Could see the falls barely throught those tree tops in the middle

Gotta be content with these

On our way back, Tony spotted this and we decided to stop and take pics… what a consolation

Getting near

My little point and shoot doing a great job

Up close… as best as I could get her

Professinal touch by Danushka

Another good one from Harsha

Horton Plains is one of my favorite places in Srilanka. So I spoke with some of my friends to go on a trip there and Pasindu, who has prior experience in camping, was the first to jump in and suggest the idea of camping at HP. I put in that we walk the whole journey from Pattipola to HP and back. We gathered all information from “Lakdasun” and www.travelogueslanka.com

We booked the Friday Badulla night mail train and reserved Camp Site 1 and did all the other arrangements.
We were on time for the train and had a good time in the train. We were supposed to sleep so that we would be fit enough for the day ahead, but no one could sleep with all the excitement.

From left: Thawoos, Myself and Pasindu.

By the time we passed Nanuoya, it started to rain. We reached Pattipola at around 4.30 am on Saturday. Having all dressed and prepared for the long trek, we took a group picture and started at about 5.40 am.

From left: Pancha, Sukumal, Pasindu, Dimuthu, Thawoos & Myself

It was drizzling when we started. It was so misty we could hardly see the road ahead of us. It is about 5km to the Pattipola gate entrance if I’m not mistaken.

Carrying the two tents was a hassle.

We walked for about an hour and took a small break to have some Cream Cracker biscuits with Glucose. I personally don’t like Creak Cracker biscuits, but it was awesome on that day due to the tiredness

Our first break. Cream Cracker biscuits with Glucose.

We started to walk again up to Pattipola gate entrance and on the way saw a few Jungle Fowls and as it was raining, I hardly managed to get some pics.

A Jungle Fowl

We reached the gate entrance at about 8.00 am and by that time, it was raining cats and dogs. We had a small chat with the officials there and inquired about Leopards etc. They also told that in this weather, we won’t be able pitch our tents. The wind was so strong that we were being lifted while we walked. We didn’t lose hope though we were disappointed about the weather. We proceeded the next 5-6 km trek to Farr Inn. Once in a while the rain would stop for a few minutes and would start again.

Another group picture. Thank God I carried my tripod with me

We took a small break near Maha Eliya Bungalow to admire a Sambar Deer. He came towards us, maybe people have fed him and he is used to it.

The Sambar Deer who came to us in search of food

By the time we reached Farr Inn, it was 10.30 am. We headed straight to the canteen to fill our tummies. A rotti with “Katta Sambol” at the canteen was Rs 50/=. We had that and a tea and rested for a while. It was about 11.30 am when Dimuthu got a call and he had to go back to Colombo, leaving the five of us. It was only about a kilometer from Farr Inn to Camp Site 1 as per the officials. We got to our camp site at about 1.00 pm after spending a lot of time at Farr Inn.

When we arrived, we did some cleaning. There was evidence of camp fires set on the grass. There were bottles and polythene on the ground. We collected all those and put in a separate garbage bag to take with us outside, to Farr Inn and throw it. It was so unpleasant to see people harming the nature.

It was so freezing and raining. We had no idea on how we could start pitching our tents in that rain. Luckily, we had a rain fly which served the purpose. First we set the rain fly, kept all our backpacks beneath it and started to put up both the tents.

We could utilize only a small space for the tents because we had only one rain fly

By the time we were all set, it was around 3.00 pm. I have to say that, the toilet was very well maintained. Maybe because it is not used frequently, or maybe the officials clean it, I am not sure. But it was odorless and very clean. We made ourselves some “Samahan” and had it inside the tent

They were the occupants of one tent. Sukumal, Pancha and Pasindu

We were the occupants of the other tent. Thawoos and Myself

The rain fly was worth a million bucks because the wind was so strong and we had to tie the rain fly very low to the ground to keep the tents from flying away.

Our plan was to do the circular trail on that day, but due to the weather and time constraints, we couldn’t do it. Pasindu and sukumal went off to the Canteen to bring us some food to survive in the night. They came back with the same “Rotti” and “Katta Sambol”. We thought of keeping that for the next day and we made some rice. Our dinner was at about 6.30 pm which was rice with chili paste.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures of that. We were so tired and cold and we went to sleep at 7.30 pm itself. But we didn’t fall asleep until about 11 pm. Me and Pancha were the ones who slept the least. It was a sleepless night for me. We still laugh at office reminding ourselves of that night. Pasindu would call me from the other tent purposely to see whether I am awake and they would laugh when I reply knowing that I am not asleep. He used to call my sirname:

Pasindu: Athaaaasssss???

Myself: Kiyapaaaang

I wish someone had invented a machine that could record your feelings so that you could replay it whenever needed. because that night was a lifetime unforgettable experience. I was wearing three thick t-shirts and a sweater and covering myself with a sheet and also a blanket on top of it. But still I was shivering. All of us had the same experience. I could feel something crawling up beneath the tent under my body. Maybe a snake or a huge worm, I don’t know. Again, after a few hours when I repositioned my foot, it stuck something fleshy, the size of a big frog. I couldn’t do anything and I don’t know what all those animals were because it was pitching dark because we could not take a lantern with us. What made it worse was, my tent was leaking. We heard a leopard roar in the opposite mountain at about 4.00 am. However after 5.00 am, I fell asleep. It was about 8.30 am on Sunday when we woke. Our breakfast was Gram with chopped onion & chili paste which we prepared in the morning.

An early morning visitor. I saw some of them in the stream as well.

Me and Pasindu wanted to climb the opposite mountain and take some pictures. We saw a huge rabbit hopping past us in the mountain. There was rabbit poo every inch in that mountain, though we managed to see only one. After some relaxing and photography, we started to pack and move out from the camp site to Farr Inn at about 1.30 pm.

Our camp site from the opposite mountain.

Cleaned everything leaving only footprints

Saying goodbye to the camp site and on the way back to Farr Inn

When we reached Farr Inn, we had a plain tea and gave the canteen person our extra food which we couldn’t consume (green gram and some rice) as a gratitude and in return he didn’t charge us for our beverage.

From Farr Inn, our next destination was Thotupola Kanda. We started at about 2.30 pm and reached the entrance of Thotupola Kanda at about 4.00 pm and had our Rotti and started the hike at 4.30 pm.

The Thotupola Kanda trail

We reached the summit at about 5.30 pm with extreme wind conditions and heavy rain. Nothing was visible from the summit.

At Thotupola Kanda summit

On the way back, we saw a lot of fresh leopard poo which was not there when we climbed. So during that time period, there had been many leopards crossing the trail.

We climed down at about 6.15 pm and was at Pattipola gate entrance at 6.40 pm. The train to Colombo was scheduled to arrive at 9.15 pm at Pattipola station. So we had to hurry.

From Pattipola gate entrance, it was dark and raining, strong wind and falling branches all over the road. We had Pasindu’s head torch and Sukumal’s torch as well. About 1 km before the Pattipola station maybe any of you can remember a small “Ambalama”. Around that area, when Pasindu was directing the torch to the side of the road, me and Pasindu spotted a leopard about 5 meters ahead of us. We could only see his eyes because the torch lit his eyes and we quickly pointed the light away from him. Passing him after about 4-5 meters, we instructed sukumal and Pancha to point the torch backwards and check whether our spotted friend was following us. Luckily he had disappeared. Probably he was hunting rabbits because we saw two rabbits running ahead of us at the same time we saw the cat.

We reached Pattipola station at 7.50 pm. The descend took us only 1 hour because we had to reach Pattipola as fast as we could to make sure that we don’t miss the train.

The train arrived at Pattipola station at 11.00 pm which was about 1 hour and 45 mints late. I fell asleep as soon as I got in and woke up at about 4.30 am on Monday. To my surprise, the train was not moving. When we inquired, the train had derailed at 12.30 am. By the time the officials came to set the train back on track, it was 10.00 am. As you can see in the picture below, it had jumped in from the “check rail” whereas it should be in between the “check rail”.

There were about 3 carriages and one engine in this state

After everything was set, the train started the journey again at about 10.30 am and stopped in Galboda because a rock had fallen on the railroad a few km’s ahead. Somehow, the train which was supposed to be at Fort railway station at 6.00 am on Monday arrived at Fort at 8.00 pm on Monday.

Totally we could cover only around 30 Km of walking in this trip whereas we planned for 44 Km including Kirigalpoththa, which we couldn’t with the weather conditions. So until the next hike, be safe and have a nice day everyone and thank you for reading my trip report.

The map – Click to Enlarge

Nuwaragala the fortress on top of a rock in the deep forest of elephant country was once a dream, nevertheless just like many other dreams this one also came true. After getting guidance from Priyanjan who had been there last year, I got together with my friend Dumidu and decided to give it a try. Though it was raining elsewhere and drizzling on and off at Maha oya we went ahead with our plans.
So on a hot and humid day early morning we reached Akuloba Lake where we met Wimalasiri who was our guide for the day. He then took us on his bike towards his home where we were greeted with a cup of tea. From Wimalasiris home we had to walk about 2Km’s towards their “Chena Wadiya” where we rested for about half an hour until Wimalasiri came back with a gun and two more Civil defense guys called Sudu banda and Mahinda. They also brought few mouthwatering water melons which we didn’t forget to taste before setting foot towards the jungle. We did call the officer in charge and got all three soldiers released so they could guide us with no obstacles.

Destination as seen from akuloba lake

towards danigala and wahawa

wow	starting the 7Km walk

pesticides used without proper protection

hut view

mode of transport

did you see the foot prints

From Akuloba chena we started creeping towards the forest which was more than a savanna type one than a dense dry zone forest. After about 1Km we reached a road which leads towards the rock which was bulldozed during the war for military purposes (this starts from 32^nd mile post Aranthalawa camp as I can recall) and one could easily get to the base of the rock via this road with a normal bike or a 4WD (not the ornamental ones). We did come across few CT-100 bikes which were using the jungle route to transport the milk from their cattle who feed at the base of the rock at few instances. Next 2.5Km was along this said path and because it was a path through savanna land we felt the heat to the maximum, which forced us to have some breaks and taste few watermelons to satisfy our fluid loss.

entering elephant country

more to go

elephants dung were found all over

reaching the base

treasure hunting continues

entering the path

When we reached the base of the rock it was around 10.30am and the surrounding scenery at this point was something spectacular. We were suddenly surrounded by mountains on all four sides and we felt like been trapped in an isolated grass patch in middle of nowhere. The initial part of the climb was through a typical dry zone forest patch which showed signs of heavy elephant activity. From the beginning onwards we were walking on an ancient chariot path build by King Sadhdhatissa to get to the top of the rock. Rock plates which were placed on the road and the rocky wall does exist all the way though it had been washed away at many places. Not so far away from the beginning we had to climb uphill through a notoriously tall and evil mana patch which drained our fitness mentally and physically. At around 12.30pm we reached the top of the mountain and my friend fell flat on the rock feeling extremely dehydrated. All of our water stock and watermelons couldn’t rehydrate his 100Kg body. So after about 30 minutes he got up determined to walk towards the heavenly pool in search of a miracle.

ancient rock plated road

the major obstacle

drainage system

on the way scenery towards Ulhitiya

out of the mana and time for a rest

evidence from the past

ancient steps

tempitiya lake and barons cap seen far away behind narakamulla range

note the elephant has rubbed its back

my favourite

lakes at akuloba

Rambaken oya reservoir

finally at the top

mallathugala

Rambaken oya zoomed

plenty of peaks

The pond itself is a master piece and located on the edge of the rock with a stunning view towards Rambaken oya. This was surely a royal threat to our tired souls and my friend got a new life after having a dip in this pond which was 5 and a half feet deep with floating elephant dung and hundreds of toads who were jumping over our heads. It was miraculous, we recovered our lost strength within seconds and we didn’t feel like getting out of the pond at all. While we were having a dip Wimalasiri and Mahinda took off to go in search of drinking water from the only known spring on top of Nuwaragala and it took them almost 1 hour to return back. After refreshing ourselves with some fresh water, we had some hoppers for lunch before starting to snap around.

From where we were the eastern cost, Pulukunawa side, Mangalagama, Ethabandi gala, and other mountains of Nuwaragala reserve could be easily seen brushing their shoulders together. Through a small gap the newly built Rambakan oya reservoir also could be seen. The best view was towards Padiyathalawa and Maduru oya reservoir including Omanugala and Thoppigala regions. We also did spot Akuloba and Borapola lakes. Nuwaragala is said to be a fortress which was never completed and the ruins at the summit are suggestive of it.

70 X 80 heavenly pond

wow it was like amurthaya

enjoying a dip

part of friars hood could be seen

Ethbendagala

Kokagala

the pond on the edge

aranthalawa and pulukunawa

Ethbendagala and mallutugala

laid long ago

Ethbendagala full view

towards batticaloa

the eastern ocean

rock view

beautiful scenery

maduru oya reservoir

through the bushes

towards ulhitiya reservoir

the rain never reached us – Click to enlarge

the savana in middle of the mountain belt

After snapping around we descended towards the huge cave which once even had a brick wall with pillars and it been on the slope of the rock produced some stunning scenery. There is a long inscription just below the drip ledge saying it was done by king Saddathissa and his son Lajjathissa who offered this to the clergy. So it is believed that this unfinished fortress was later converted in to a monastery complex.

steep drop from the cave

cave view

team spirit

wow

splendid view

what a place to rest

pano from the cave

view towards padiyathalawa

wow again

this is what idiots have done

inscription

note the groove on the ground which once harbored a wall

towards Namal oya forest

trying to imitate saradiel

another view from the cave

elephants do come to this cave

couldnt resist clicking around

if i could fly

Akuloba area

After having a chat while enjoying the panoramic view from the cave we began our descend through the hazardous Mana patch and reached the base, to find a mini stream to wash off the fur of mana. Since it was turning dark and the Elephants start to roam out of the deep forest, we had to rush back towards the village. Somehow we had walked roughly 14Km’s for the day and that plus the difficulties faced with the humidity and Mana we were feeling exhausted. At such a time a fresh “Pani Dodam” (2 glasses) drink which Wimalasiri’s wife offered to us was the medicine we needed for a speedy recovery. After thanking our newly met friends and offering something for their service which they provided, we decided to head back towards Maha Oya. After reaching the hospital of Maha oya, I had a clean wash and continued 150 Km’s in a bus standing all the way to Monaragala and that was the most difficult part of the day for me and my legs.

Quote

Believed to be the hideout of Prince Saddatissa during his time of rancor with his brother the great King of Sri Lanka King Dutugamunu, Nuwaragala according to prominent archeologist Ellawala Medhananda Thera was a monastery built by King LajjaThissa, who ruled the country 119-109 BC. 

A stone paved pathway with a width of nearly 20 feet leads to the top of the mountain and to a large drip ledged cave, which can comfortably house nearly 150 people. The cave has been partitioned with brick walls and had had a plastered and decorated interior but the walls and the inner plaster is in ruins today.

Further uphill is a pond, an eternal water source to the creatures of the wild today, but would have been initially built to cater hundreds of arhant monks, who whiled away in meditation. The ruins of monastery spread in and around Nuwaragala as witness to the prosperity of monastery during the first century BC. One of the most prominent among is the ruins is a statue house, which would have been built nearly three hundred years after the initial construction of the monastery. 

According to some archeologists Nuwaragala could have been the Girinuwara, the famed city of Prince Giri Abaya, the partner of Princess Soma, the sister of King Kawanthissa. Sinhala historical chronicles Datuwansa records Prince DutuGamunu visiting the site with a Minister named Dava. A confrontation between the uncle and nephew broke up the kingdom and Prince Giri Abaya eventually left to SeruNuwara abandoning his mountain fortress.

Today this mountain fortress turned monastery is in the homeland of a Vedda community, who lives in and around Pollebedda, few miles away from Nuwaragala, in a well-known vedda village immortalized in Dr. Spittel’s books

Omanugala peak

plenty of mondanocks

descending along the ancient path

the ancient rocky road leading to the summit

at last ground zero

interesting shape of Pettigala

getting back

they were everywhere

after a 4km walk this was are temporary resting place

hmm rolling dung(please dont squash them)

didnt have to use them

good bye nuwaragala

Thanks for reading!

“The Milky Way – up on the Heavens; is tinkling just for you.
And Mr. Moon – he came by; to say good night to you”

That’s my phone ringing taking me out of my trance into the real world. “Pick the darn thing, will ya” my colleague is yelling at me. I dragged lazily outta my chair and rummage in my drawer and find the phone to see Wuminda is calling.

“Hi Sri, it’s Shalika here” – that’s his other name and I recognize him immediately.
“Yo, what’s up” I reply in typical horrendous made-up British Accent.
“Poson is coming and what we gonna do?” – Birds of a feather flock together, I think coz I too was pondering over it just a minute ago.
“Nothing special but how about a one-day then to Kalthota Doovili Ella?”
“Sounds great and let’s get the folks” – he hangs up leaving me dreaming of Doovili Ella, open-mouthed as if I had seen the most beautiful girl in the world.

Immediately after our somewhat successful journey to the Bathalegala, I started looking for options for another journey and came across Kalthota Doovili Ella from Harinda and Prince. After our unsuccessful attempt at Asupini Ella, I was planning on visiting her again but intermittent rains kept me isolated only in my dreams. So Wuminda’s phone call was a disguised blessing and I immediately formed a group called “Balangoda” on Facebook and sent the requests to my former crew.
The response was great but Harinda (newly employed fella) wasn’t so sure about the journey and to make matters worse Dana confirmed that the van we used is not available this time. So much for a grand start

I then asked everyone to keep an eye for a van with reasonable and affordable rates and started looking for one or two new crew members. (Harinda certainly took space for two ) Tony and Harinda both suggested we get Athula to join and what a great choice it turned out to be. He and his friend Prasanna confirmed the attendance and Prince came up with a telephone number for a low-cost van.

When I called it they promised to send a van with a seating capacity of 10 (plus two jumping seats) for just Rs. 30/- km. (They usually charge 35/- but when I said we would be hitting 350+km the rate got reduced dramatically.) Harinda’s absence left us with a sense of down feeling but thankfully all the others willingly confirmed their attendance.

Falling Head over Heels in Love…

The date was set for 23 June (Poson Full Moon Poya Day) and we eagerly waited for the day to arrive. I’m sure you’re curious about the name “Moon walkers”, aren’t you? There were only two moon walking I had heard before: 1. Astronauts’ walk on the moon (Neil Armstrong, Edwin Aldrin & Co.) 2. World famous Michael Jackson’s dancing style.

So why call ourselves Moonwalkers? Coz we did our first hike together on Vesak Full Moon Poya Day and this was on Poson Full Moon Poya Day… so coincidentally, we seem to take a liking to the Moon. Thus the name “Moon Walkers”.

The van picked Wuminda, Prince, Athula and Tony from Battarmulla around 4.30am came to Embuldeniya for me and Wijerama for Harsha and finally Dana and Thilini from Kottawa. Did I say finally? Not quite coz Athula’s friend Prasanna was waiting at Kaluaggala

There went the Moon Walkers away happily talking to the dozen. Athula’s addition brought in more Socio-Geo-Political topics and Prince was stranded at the front seat without a companion for his tailor-made stories. (Kumarage Agiya Katha) However, he wasn’t to be bowed down as we saw he had Ajith (our driver) engaged in some serious talk and I got the jitters immediately coz we wanted Ajith to be in his proper senses till the day end. Meanwhile Tony was furious with me for not letting him write Bathalegala trip report. He kept complaining that he had everything planned and I ruined his plans. What could I say? Then I offered him this report but he flatly refused saying he’s still mastering his typing skills at a night school.

Afterwards, Dana became Prince’s prey and no stopping since then. As usual, our food coordinator and meal director Wuminda didn’t forget his duty to gently remind us of breakfast. Prince kept missing the shops as he was so engrossed in engaging others with his never-ending mixed-up stories and we decided to take the job ourselves and soon found a posh-looking place in between Kuruwita and Ratnapura. (Bad me coz didn’t get a pic of the place or its name)

Breakfast buffet was 300/- each (I’m not sure after yesterday, 23 June) and we attacked it like hungry wolves. The attack was so surprising and ruthless the catering staff had difficulty bringing the food from the kitchen and I’m almost sure I saw the manager rubbing his chest as if having a heart attack. That must’ve been the first day they went on a loss from the day they started. They didn’t wait for us to ask for the bill. As soon as they realized that the bombardment is about to come to an end, the bill was presented. I almost felt sorry for them. Having filled all the compartments of our tummies to the brim, we left for Balangoda.

Note: over numerous chit-chat there were some stories I wish I could share with you folks but unfortunately I was threatened at gunpoint not to reveal any of them. So I’m gonna have to save them for some other time.

Tour Highlights:

1. Doovili Ella, Kalthota
2. Galtamyaya Ruins, Thanjanthenna
3. Kuragala Buddhist Monastery
4. Budugala Archaeological Site
5. Budugala Raja Maha Viharaya
6. Diyawini Ella

We reached Balangoda around 9.00am turned to the Kalthota Road where we need to take another 27km. Passing Wikiliya, Rajawaka, Kuragala, Thanjanthenna to the Doovili Ella.

Doovili Ella, Kalthota

Little did we know that one member of the crew had a more sentimental reason to join this trip as he’d had some love affair thing in Kalthota area. (Don’t ask me who it is but he’s bound to beat Usain Bolt any day providing you show him a leech) You need to take a left where there’s a sign board saying “Doovili Ella Tourist Development Project” and drive about 1km to the entrance gate where you need to buy tickets. (20/- per person and 30/- for the vehicle)

Along the road, drive another 1km or so to the shop, the first viewing platform (not so great a view) and the parking. (The road actually in a not-too-bad condition however, if it’s a car with a low ground clearance, might need to be a bit careful.) From there, it’s about 370 steps drop to the second viewing platform which gives you grandeur view (Tony and his sons once counted the steps and three out of four got 370). There’s a path running to the right at the bottom and take it passing the proposed children play area for a wonderful face-to-face encounter with one of the most beautiful girls in the whole wide world.

I fell head over heel in love with her immediately, it was love at first. She’s second to none, lemme tell you. The top is very narrow and the water is gushing down at a ferocious face making her getting wider and wider till she hits the bottom some 40m down to the rock pool which looks real deep. For our utmost joy, she was in near full flow due to the last couple weeks’ rain in the upcountry. She’s the main stream of the Walawe River that originates from sacred Adam’s Peak and flows to the Indian Ocean at Ambalanthota.

Well from then onwards, it was a frenzy of camera activity and posing for pictures. Continuous click of shutters couldn’t match the roar of the fall that makes some noise. After about half hour we decided to take the same path and go along to the top of the fall. On the top it’s a mixture of rocks and gushing water streams and rock pools. Further up you come across a larger pool with a tiny cascade which I called “Singithi Doovili Ella”.

More pictures and poses till we realized that we’re running outta time pretty fast for our liking and decided to bid our farewell to this gorgeous girlie. Came up the steps to the shop and had some nice plain tea and milk tea (bear in mind the shop doesn’t have electricity, at least not yet – now I’m not about to initiate a project to give them power just like Meemure coz it’s not a dire need for them) and hit the road for a short walk till the rest of the crew got back.

The view along the road was simply magnificent and we almost walked up to the gate itself before the van caught up with us.

The Breakfast feast almost sent them outta business

The sign where you need to take a left turn – Click Image to Enlarge

First view from the top viewing platform, not a clear one though

Weather beaten sign post – all the animals shown there not in site

Just starting towards bottom

The younger fellows coming down with ease

What an opening to the second tier

First glimpse from the second tier… irresistible

Up close… full flow

Coming around to the front of the falls

More and more

Feel like hugging

Can it get any better than this?

Nine-Troop – mission accomplished

Children’s play area

Coming to the top, full of rocks, watch your feet

The “Singithi Doovili Ella” on top

Wide angle…

The river Walawe slowly but steadily flows to make one of the greatest falls of the whole wide world

See the water gushing through the tiny gap

Going towards the south where she joins Indian Ocean

Side view up close

The dark-green base pool (must be real deep)

Water hitting at a ferocious pace

370 steps

The shop at the steps entrance…

Took a walk up towards the entrance

The road in somewhat acceptable state

It’s grand view

Galtamyaya Ruins, Thanjanthenna

We turned to the right towards Balangoda to go see Kuragala, our next in line. However, along the way in Thanjanthenna, we came across this archaeological sign “Galtamyaya Gurudiyawala Purana Viharaya” and out of sheer curiosity we decided to take a quick peek and it turned out to be a well spent half hour or so at the premises.

It boasts remains of a Stupa and foundation of a huge Buddhist monastery complex and the whole land was more than one acre in size bordered by a chain link fence with a pad locked gate. There was nobody around to ask about the remains so after we decided to go to the main attraction of Kuragala.

The board displaying Galtamyaya

Looks familiar right? If they think we can preserve these archaeological sites and keep the treasure hunters away by putting up boards like these, well we won’t have anything to go see very soon – Click Image to Enlarge

Excavated to get the foundation

The entrance to the building

Scattered stone pillars

Pity there was no one to inquire about

The stupa still standing tall showing the strong architectural creativity of our ancestors

Possible to get to the stage around the Stupa

Might there have been a shelter covering the whole Stupa

Outer wall

A notice… Treasure hunters don’t bother reading these I guess – Click Image to Enlarge

Having a much needed rest under the Mango trees

Kuragala Buddhist Monastery

Went along the Kalthota towards Balangoda about 2km or so and the sign is there saying Kuragala and took the left turn. There was a Dansala but we simply didn’t have enough time and the queue was a bit too long for our liking even though those people kept pestering us to come have some food. Along the road (which is not in very good condition but passable) we drove another about 1km till we reached a parking area over flowing with vehicles and devotes in white clothes coz it was the Poson Poya.

It was the midday and the sun was angrily showing his rays but we were not to be discouraged. We got off the vehicle at the bottom of the rock and ask Ajith to wait for us at the car park (You have to pay 50/-) and started our ascent. There were hundreds of people milling around and for our great relief there was soft drinks Dansala and two glasses of them went down our parched throats tickling us. We saw some houses built along the path for the Muslim devotees who came there but now look abandoned and one housed a police post.

Further up, we came to the archaeological site and the sign said “Kuragala Archaeological Reserve: Remains of an Ancient Buddhist Monastery Circa 2nd Century B.C.”. We could see the illegal construction had been removed and piled along and the Kuragala Rock was standing majestically. The Muslim people had gone there and built it into one of their own worshipping places after an incident in 1938 according to Tony.

-There had been this person called Abdul Cader Jelani and he’d spent a life of a hermit for about 12 years at the caves there after his wife left him. People took pity to him and he was apparently a very good person. After his death, he was buried there and Muslim people started worshipping the place building numerous structures as a result so many writings and archeologically important things were destroyed-. This is what we got from Tony and the true nature of the story couldn’t be independently verified.

Anyhow, it’s clear that this place was a Buddhist Monastery and inability and inefficiency of our Archeological Department and relevant officials had caused so much irreparable damage to the place. I’m sure so many places like these are hidden in especially in the East without so much of a visit from them. Treasure hunters and other lunatics keep destroying them and it’s such a pity. All those construction work carried out by those people after 1938 must have destroyed so much valuable stone scripts, caves, paintings and many more. The damage is definitely irreparable.

The view from the rock is simply magnificent and aspiring. We came across a Giant Squirrel mother who was feeding on fresh seeds at a nearby tree. Harsha and I spent almost half hour picturing the lady and others had to wait at the top of the rock for our arrival to visit the cave. On the top of the rock is so windy and it must be around 60-70kmph. We kept joking that the fishermen in that area can’t have gone fishing due to strong winds. I thought if the Met department actually meant the winds on top of Kuragala rather than along the coast.

We could see the Budugala Temple from the top clearly and the Stupa was in pristine white surrounded by Buddhist flags. Down below freshly grown paddy fields beaming with vibrant green as if a carpet had been laid. You can keep looking at them without knowing the time fly. Such great medicine for our souls and lifting our spirits so high making you feel ten feet tall. I was over the moon.

There was a split rock and underneath (had to lie down and look up) you can see a foot print but clearly not visible nor able to picture. After so much clicking and posing we went to the stump of the Stupa remaining on the top and thankfully someone bothered to cover around it with a fence.

Then it was time to get down about 20feet to explore the cave. Prasanna who had a torch over his forehead went with Tony followed by Prince and I while Dana and Thilini bringing the rear. I suddenly remembered “Vietnamese Tunnel Rats” and coincidently we had talked about them too on our way. It was pitching dark and our torches had to work over time to pierce it. After about 100ft we came to a somewhat steep hole in the rock which is very narrow (about 1ft in width) entrance. Prasanna, Tony and one other fellow from another group had already at the bottom trying to get further in.

There were hundreds of bats hanging from the rock surface looking angrily at us for disturbing their afternoon siesta. There were Batmen and Batwomen with their Battren (similar to Children) frowning at us coz we had invaded their kingdom violating all Bat rights. If I’m not mistaken they were gonna submit a petition strongly protesting our intervention at their annual conference at Vavulpane. There’ll be lots of Bat(s)men playing there.

Our torch beams made them go crazy and we did our best not to antagonize them. I felt like a joke and just out of nowhere said “Prince, there’re leeches”. You should’ve seen the horror on his face as if seen the Satan himself. He turned at an alarming speed and Thilini shouted not to push her coz he and Tony had a very hilarious experience at Asupini Ella.

While Tony, Thilini and Harsha with Prince coming up the hill after us to see Asupini Ella, Tony had found a couple of leeches on his arm and shown Thilini and Prince. That was more than enough to send him out of his mind and run for his life pushing Thilini out of the way. So she was very scared when Prince turned like an angry bull about to charge at the fella with a red scarf and I held onto him dearly coz I didn’t want Thilini or anyone else getting hammered on his frantic run to safety.

It was so funny and we couldn’t stop laughing even though Thilini felt otherwise. Then we heard that the path wasn’t going nowhere from below as the roof had fallen blocking the tunnel. So Tony climbed back up and it was Prasanna’s turn to come up and it was so frightening to see him struggling to come up past the narrow gap pushing himself up. He was a bit rotund (not as much as a Sumo Player though) and kept turning this way and that way squeezing himself to fit into that gap gasping, frantically trying to get a grip on the rock surface to push up.

Finally he managed to get his sorry self up and the person below him heaved a sigh of relief. So anyone attempting to tackle this tunnel would be better off not trying it especially if you have small children.

We turned around and came back to the safety leaving those bats in peace. It was so annoying to see people taking small kids into the cave even after we told them that it wasn’t safe to do so. Such stupidity is only heard here in SL I suppose. If something happens to anyone there’ll be a major uproar from media and public and the place will get closed down.

Getting up

Steps carved in the stone

Signs of a bushfire evident

Entering into the archaeological site

The remains of the dislodged constructions at the bottom of the picture

Had to wait a long time till the people went away so that the pic will come nice and clean