The Little New Zealand – and Along the Railway Track to Ohiya

Enjoying the huffing and puffing up the hills……

Scheduled time for Ambewela was 1.15pm and we reached there by 2.00pm. The other party from Kandy was waiting for us at the closed rail gate, so it was perfect timing as we all reached Ambewela together.

Ambewela is a pretty small town and if you are coming by train the mode of transportation would by bus or tuk-tuks – a new addition to Ambewela. It is difficult to find a van for hire. Ambewela is on the bus route from Pattipola to Nuwara Eliya and there are a few buses– one via Meepilimana and one via Rendapola.

When we visited Ambewela two years ago there were no tuk-tuks and this is how we reached the MILCO bungalow.

Our Experience on an earlier occasion…..two years ago…..

Since it was our very first visit we did not know that MILCO bungalow was just 1 km away from the station. This time we missed the opportunity of hopping on to an elf truck as there were tuk-tuks readily waiting at the station. We sent the younger kids and a grandma with the baggages and walked the 1 km to the MILCO bungalow enjoying the surroundings.

Circuit Bungalow B

MILCO (Highland) operates two circuit bungalows at Ambewela, close to the Spray Dried Milk Powder Factory. The bungalows are on the main road from Ambeweal to Pattipola. On your way to Worlds End you pass them 1km away from Ambewela town. You can’t miss them as there are hardly any buildings along this road. Reservation is not open to public but limited to Highland staff.

Circuit Bungalow B – side view

Circuit Bungalow A

The Bungalows consist of four bed rooms each and can accommodate 16-20. You have to bring your rations and there is a cook/bungalow keeper to do the cooking.

We reached our bungalow (B) around 2.30 and had lunch (brought from home). We then went back to town (Ambewela) and bought rations for the next two days. Do not expect much from this sleepy town with a few boutiques. We had to go from kade to kade to buy the stuff – even veggies.

We decided to visit New Zealand Farm in the evening which is only 3-4 kms away. It is open till 6pm on week-ends. The little ones with the grandmas went in the car and the rest took two tuk-tuks from the bungalow. Each charged only Rs.400/= for the round trip. It was a very pleasant journey late in the afternoon. The wind power plant, which is a new addition to the landscape, looked like giants standing on the green grass.

On the way to the New Zealand Farm…..

On the way to the New Zealand Farm…..

Farm in the evening sun…

Towards the farm …

Young calves

Goats shed

Though we’ve visited the farm many a times the kids enjoyed every minute of it. (despite the smell in the sheds). The final milking for the day is at 5.30 and after witnessing the event we called the tuk-tuks to pick us from the farm.

We reached the bungalow around 7 dead tired after a long day. Our cook, Saman, a very friendly chap, had prepared a delicious dinner that disappeared from the table in no time. We all went early to bed as we had many things plans for the next day.

DAY 2

The highlight of the trip was to do a railway hike from Pattipola to Ohiya. The kids (the elder ones) were so eager after I guided them through Lakdasun trip reports such as Life Along the Railways of Uva, Memorable Journey to Ohiya and Rail hike from Demodara to Pattipola– all describing the excitement of a railway hike. It was a totally novel thing and we were looking forward to it after reading all those reports as well as enjoying the attached photos. It was obvious that the entire crowd could not do the hike – we had grandmas, grandpas and babies. So it was decided the four youngsters with grandmas would visit Worlds End by the car and the three elder kids join the hike with the rest of us – well that included two grandpas aged 75 and 72. The elder kids did not mind missing out Worlds End as they did the full trail twice last year.

We had an early breakfast of Kiribath that Saman prepared and left the bungalow by 8.am. To our relief it was a bright sunny day with no hint of rain. We got ourselves dropped at Pattipola rail gate as we wanted to preserve our energy for the hike. Moreover I read somewhere in Lakdasun that there is not much to see from Ambewela – Pattipola. So I was certain that we were not missing much if we start from Pattipola.

Starting point

We talked to the Station Master and he advised us to wait for the Colombo bound train that would arrive in a short while and then proceed. We had studied the train schedule beforehand and our plan was to catch the next Colombo bound train from Ohiya at 11 am. We were also told that there will be a goods train around 10.30.

Train from Baddulla approaching Pattipola Station (8.30 am)

The hikers

The hikers

We proceeded along the rail track enjoying the cool breeze in the pleasant morning. It wasn’t very chilly and to my disappointment there was no mist at all. Soon we reached the summit level.

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At the summit level – two of us

…..and the oldest participant of the hike

Passing Summit Level

From Pattipola to Ohiya there was no human habitation nor was there any cultivation. We saw abandoned vegetable plots close to Pattipola but as we proceeded it was jungle on both sides of the track providing a panoramic view all the way.

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View on the way…..

Ma Rath Mal

Along the railway…

Abandoned buildings…a school????

We came across these abandoned buildings just before Tunnel No.18. Wonder what they are? There was a fence blocking entry to the premises. They looked like abandoned buildings of a school- with the ground in front. Any idea???

Then came the peak of the hike – Tunnel No. 18. We have read enough and more about this tunnel on the forum and were armed with powerful torches. It is supposed to be the second longest tunnel on the upcountry line and more than 321mts long.

Entering Tunnel No 18

It was pitch dark inside the tunnel and we had to be cautious as the track was slippery with water coming from the tunnel wall. The kids were far ahead of us enjoying the new experience and we were out of the tunnel in less than ten minutes. My daughter’s complaint was it was not as spooky as it was supposed to be and not long enough!!

We also noticed a climatic change as well as a change in the surroundings when coming out of Tunnel No.18. When we entered it we were enjoying the cool breeze of Pattipola but the other end was more dry and warm.

Next came Tunnel 19, which was jus 20 mts long.

Coming out of Tunnel 18

Tunnel No 19 – just 20mtrs.

Panorama continued along the way…

Tunnel No 20 was an entirely different story. It wasn’t pitch dark as tunnel No 18. It was as straight as an arrow and you could see the end. It is over 100 mts long and the walk through the tunnel is like a walk towards infinity. You walk and walk and walk but the end seems too far away. I found it more challenging than Tunnel No 18.

Never ending Tunnel No 20

Never ending Tunnel No 20

Then came the challenging task of crossing the railway bridge close to Ohiya. It was past 10:15 and we were conscious of the goods train we were warned of. Moreover a person working in a vegetable plot (the only person we met on the hike) warned us of the train scheduled around this time and advised us to wait till it pass to cross the bridge as there was hardly any room on the bridge in case a train approaches. So, we rested for a while and had some biscuits, waiting for the train to cross the bridge.

There was no sign of the train but we were reluctant to cross the brige exposing ourselves to danger. On the other hand we had to be at Ohiya to catch the 11 o”clock train if not the next train would be at 1:30, which would be a total waste of time. Fortunately I had the Ambewela Station number and when inquired we were told that it is running one hour late and still has not reached Nanu Oya. Relieved with the news we crossed the bridge taking our own time enjoying the elevated view.

Ohiya Railway Bridge

Crossing the bridge

Crossing the bridge

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Enjoying the view

After crossing the bridge we came to the last tunnel of our hike – Tunnel No:21-just 20 mts.

Last Tunnel of the hike – Tunnel 21

After tunnel No 21 we hurried our stepts but still enjoying the breathtaking scenery along the railway

Changing landscape towards Ohiya

Changing landscape towards Ohiya

We reached our destination Ohiya Station around 10:45 leaving us enough time to enjoy rotti and plain tea from the nearby boutique.

The young hikers at Ohiya Station

The young hikers at Ohiya Station

The Train from Badulla reached Ohiya around 11:05 and was packed with holiday-makers.

We enjoyed the journey back to Ambewela on the footboard of the train. We all felt the tunnels were much longer when we pass them in the train than when we walked through them – maybe we were faster than the tran! By 11:30 we were back at Ambewel Station ending our first train hike successfully. The kids were so excited and we promised them a longer hike next time – may be from Ohiya to Idalgashinna.

We walked the one km back to the bungalow and by 12 the hikers were relaxing at the bungalow, but the youngsters who went to Hortain Plains were yet to come.

The little ones with the grandmas too have enjoyed their time at Hortain Planins and they have walked up to Chimney Pool and come back. They reached the bungalow past one.

We all enjoyed Saman’s lunch and rested for a while as we all deserved it

Hortain Plains

Friend they met

The evening was spent at Kande Ela (Meepilimana Lake) just a few kilometers towards Nuwara Eliya. The little ones with the two grandmas went by the car and the rest got into a bus coming from Pattipola. We inquired the driver when the last bus from Nuwara Eliya to Pattipola would be and we were told that it leaves Nuwara Eliya at 6.00 and pass Kande Ela around 6.30. We made a mental note to catch it for our journey back home.

At Kande Ela

Boat ride

Sun going down at Kande Ela

It was disappointing to note that the gate of the “Kande Ela Educational Park” run by the Forest Department was locked and the buildings looked neglected. Wonder whether it is closed for good. It was a stopover for many on the way to Worlds End and the nature trail was educational as well as interesting.

We enjoyed a boat ride in the lake and as dusk was setting in we left Kande Ela. The little ones went in the car and we started walking hoping the last bus to Pattipola would come at any moment. We walked nearly 3 kms but there was no sign of the bus and the car had to do another trip to pick the rest of the crowd. So those who did the rail hike in the morning and did this walk did more than 10kms on foot for the day!

Around 7:30 in the night we reached the bungalow and heard the bus passing a few minutes later. We all were tired after a long day and went early to bed after enjoying another delicious meal prepared by Saman.

Day 3

Early next morning we noticed that the weather has changed slightly and there was a slight drizzle. Saman said it is called “Babar Pinna”- the kind of spraying you get in a saloon! I couldn’t agree more. But soon after the sun came out shining bright and we were relieved that our last day would not be spoilt by the rain.

After a healthy b’fast we went to see the Spray Dried Milk Powder Factory close by. You have to get prior approval from Highland Head Office Colombo and the factory functions on week days only. As it was a Monday we could see the factory but the procedure took quite some time.

Towards the factory

We spent quite some time in the factory learning how milk power is made out of liquid milk – quite a hot topic these days – and also viewed the packing plant as well. It was good educational stuff for the kids.

We were to leave for Nuwara Eliya thereafter and the plan was to catch the 10:30 bus from Pattipola to Nuwara Eliya via Rendapola. We were thinking of visiting Hakgala Gardens if time permits as the bus passes the Gardens. We were waiting for the bus for quite some time when we heard that there is a political meeting at Nuwara Eliya and all CTB buses have been sent there. At the same time we saw the train from Badulla going towards Ambewela station and were sorry that we didn’t think of catching it as it would take us to Nanu Oya. But luck was in our way. Our party that eft by car called to say that the train will be at the station for some time until the goods train passes. We had to do a marathon along the rail track to catch the train just in time. We went to Nanu Oya by the train and then took a bus to Nuwara Eliya. Though it was a “Parangiya Kotte Giya Wage” route we all enjoyed the additional train journey.

At Nuwara Eliya we went to Gregory Park and it was packed with those who came to the political rally held in the morning. At the park the kids did what they love most – cycling along the track enjoying the cool breeze.

At Gregory Park

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After enjoying the Gregory Park for quite some time we all were hungry and had lunch at the park making use of the tables and benches made out of used sleepers. We had brought lunch pkts from home and we all enjoyed our outdoor lunch.

After lunch one party of the group left for Kandy by car and we spent some time in the town and walked to the main bus stand. There was a bus leaving for Pattipola at 4:30 and the last bus was at 6:00. We decided to go in the 4:30 bus because of previous day’s experience with the last bus.

The bus took almost one hour to reach Ambewela and we got off near our bungalow by 5:30. We had a refreshing cup of coffee and relaxed for a while as we had to catch the night mail train to Colombo. Before dinner we walked along the road leading to the factory in the moonlight enjoying the cool Ambewela whether for the last time.

We had our dinner prepared by Saman and bid good bye to him around 9:00 as the train was scheduled at 9:45. We sent the little ones and grandma’s in a tuk-tuk to the station and enjoyed the one km walk in moonlight. As it was the day before poya the moon was out in full and we hardly needed a torch.

This time the train got late and we were made to wait till 10:45 pm freezing at the Ambewela Station.

Freezing at Ambewela station

We had reserved seats in the sleeper, but could hardly sleep as the ill-tempered guard was shouting at passengers who tried to get in at each station.

The train was scheduled to reach Colombo at 5:15 but it was past 6:30 when it reached Fort.

As we came back by the night mail train we had the Poya day to rest. We all were satisfied with our successful train journey this year and promised ourselves another train trip soon, of course along with a longer rail hike!

Thanks for reading!