Extending the Range – Knuckles Episode 2 (NKPS)

Hello good morning to you all! Hope you’ve had a good night’s sleep compared to us. I told you last night that we had a tough time trying to sleep on a sloping surface and to make matters worse the wind kept up its moaning howl throughout the night. We kept looking at the time and at times talking about this and that just to pass the time. Finally when it was light enough and the winds have gone to some distant land, we decided to come out and boil some water for the morning coffee. It was colder than we anticipated so a warm coffee was just what the doctor ordered.

As usual Tony and Nava mama took charge of the cooking and I did the shooting. After a warm coffee we felt almost human and decided to go explore the Belumgala and Hunugala whose base we were camping. Tony was feeling a bit stiff so decided to have the breakfast ready while Nava mama and I went back up the way we came previous evening rolling and falling. We decided to take pictures and be back as soon as possible coz there was a long journey planned for the day and I had no intention of walking until it was dark. The breakfast was to be sliced bread with Tuna & Vegetable Paste. We were running low on water so this suited our cause just fine. By the way it was still fairly dark so we’ll see the campsite on our return. So let’s leave poor Tony to play the housewife and go see what’s on offer.

Belumgala & Hunugala

We went up cautiously as Nava mama fell the last evening coming down. We also found Tony’s hat fallen in his adventurous slide downhill. The tree cover was so thick blocking the morning rays kissing the earth. We came across another small cave-like place above us but not suitable for spending the night. From here we could see the sun falling on the Gombaniya and Knuckles Mountain Range. Sudugala which is towards the Kalugala was also visible. There was a thick layer of mist coming from Gomara side over the Knuckles. Nava mama said we could get a better view from the Hunugala so we didn’t stay long.

We went up until we came to the so-called Belumgala which is located to the left side of Hunugala. After maneuvering around the rock covered with vines, we got onto the top of Belumgala which wasn’t difficult at all.  However the view was only towards the east from Udawannimana via Lakegala up to Galamuduna. The sun was almost up in the sky and taking the pictures of the eastern side was not so easy as we were facing the sun. Behind us was Gombaniya looking down on us and we could only see the top of her through the trees. Here are the pictures for you till now.

GPS Location of Belumgala

Lat: 7.44305 / Lon: 80.81648

Altitude: 1227m

Left to the Gombaniya

Last of Knuckles mountains

The mighty Hunugala

Nava mama at Belumgala

Sun was already up

Lakegala with her three sisters

Lush green

Gombaniya hiding behind us

All around it was soothing green

Contrast

Trying to get a clear shot

Lakegala hiding

Katu Kithul Kanda

We were scared imagining a leopard inside

We then got down from Belumgala and walked hugging the rocky wall towards the adjoining rock which is Hunugala. Getting to it proved more challenging but we made it there without an issue. However, on arriving at the top we found there was no way we could get a better view as it was full of trees covering all angles. It looked as if we had no option but to turn around but Nava mama wouldn’t have any of that. He went to one edge and climbed onto a tree which was the only thing we could’ve done given the circumstances.

I followed him carefully and climbing onto a solid branch we were treated with some majestic views towards the Gombaniya, Knuckles Mountain Range, Sudugala, Appalla Pathana and even all the way towards Lakegala. This was like magic and I kept taking picture after picture. We could see the Kaikawala paddy fields and where the Guru Oya which is known as Heen Ganga at Kaikawala, started. Nava mama pointed that Guru Oya is being fed throughout the year from both South-West and North-East Monsoons making it usually rich with water all around the year.

There was a creamy layer of clouds over Knuckles (this is the 5^th and the last of the range) spreading all the way towards Gombaniya. The lush greenery of the Appalla Pathana was appealing and we were still undecided whether to go for it today itself or wait till the following day. Corbet’s Gap was also visible at the far distance but was partially covered from the mountains in the foreground. Nava mama said that we would be able to see all around the Knuckles from Appalla Pathana and I was itching to get there quickest. However when checked we found there was mobile reception on top of the tree so we called Meemure and told them of our progress so far.

We wanted to get a view towards the Rehena Ketu Pathana too and had to climb down from where we were as it was behind us. Having looked around, we found another tree and climbed onto it and got a few decent pictures but the mist flowing from Riverston had covered the view somewhat. However the view of Gombaniya and Kudagala was better from here and we savored it. Right the time is getting on without us knowing so we must get down and go to Tony who’s at the base of where we are at the moment. Hopefully the fellow is not frightened to death by a leopard or a black monkey. Oh, I guess I jinxed him by saying that coz that’s exactly what would happen before long. Keep on reading.

GPS Location of Hunugala

Lat: 7.44248 / Lon: 80.81717

Altitude: 1259m

From Hunugala on top of a tree

Towards Kalugala and Sudugala

Knuckles

Hard to capture them in the wind

Climbed to another tree

Gombaniya

Mixture of colors

Kudagala

Once again found a good opening

Trying to balance for the picture

Towards Riverston beyond Rehena Ketu Pathana

All misty

Kudagala zoomed in

Gombaniya smiling at us

Leaves rustling in the wind

Getting back to Tony

Thought this was a leopard’s head

No idea what this was

Campsite at Hunugallena

We retraced our steps and got back to the campsite around 8am. Tony was taking a nap out on the rocky surface after having his breakfast. Nava mama and I sat down and had our Tuna & Veggie Paste Sandwiches made by Tony and wished for another cup of steaming coffee but we were down to the last liter of water and wouldn’t know when we can get some again. So keeping it deep in our thoughts, we munched on the sandwiches. In the meantime you go ahead and take a look at the campsite and see how you’d like to stay there for a night.

The Hunugallena

Our tents await for us

It was all ok except for the sloping ground

Ready to go

Hunugala towered above us

Leaving our campsite spotless which is very important

In Search of Water

We cleared the whole are before heading downhill along the rocky slope of Hunugala. Nava mama kept an eye out for any Maussa plants and cut them off from the path. There was no clear path but we managed to walk among the trees as there was enough space between them. Only pressing issue was the never-ending presence of Maussa plants. If touched with the bare skin, you’re bound to get fever and the area will swell immediately. It won’t go down at least for four days. I wonder if there’s any known modern medicine for it but the villagers would use Kurahan flour paste with water and spread on the infected area. They can even apply some coconut milk and let a cat lick it.

We were down to the last half bottle of water and had to find some immediately before heading towards Aluth Deyyange Gala. All of a sudden Nava mama found a gap in the rocky boulder and went up to examine it for water. There was a faint trickle along the rocky surface and he managed to collect about ¼ bottle of water after spending about 15 minutes. The water was essential but so was the time. We couldn’t spend hours waiting for that faint trickle to fill our bottles so decided to try our luck at the Kirindiketiya Thenna where there supposed to be a stream.

So we kept going downhill to our right evading the poisonous Maussa and finally, Eureka! We managed to find the stream and to our joy it had enough water flowing among the rocks. This is called Kirindiketiya Thenna (yeah we had lunch the day before on the other side of this place) and the water stream was called Kirindiketiya Ela. Well it was a small stream so Nava mama made another half a tube using a bark of a tree. I suggested we boil some water and have some instant coffee which was seconded by the rest of the team. So we sat down comfortably and waited for Nava mama to boil the water. Meanwhile, we all had a hearty bellyful of water to quench our thirst. Ok the water is boiling and you can see the pictures below. We’ll see you later on as now we have to go uphill towards Aluth Deyyange Gala.

Going downhill along the border of the Hunugala

So high

There’s an opening in the middle

No sign of water though

Probably here

Better explore and see

The terrain we came down

Empty bottles and the backpack taking a break – Thanks Ana for lending this to me

There’s Nava mama looking for precious water

Managed to get about 1/4 liter after waiting for quarter of an hour

Ok, we’ll have to go this way down

Formation of rocks

Hugging the rocky wall dearly

Taking a break

Climbed up to explore the surroundings

It was dark inside the forest

Nobody home

Found quite a few of them

Eureka! Water at last

Can you see someone peeping at us? It’s a crab

Water is boiling

Nava mama’s handy work

Clear water

My coffee is sitting in the water to cool off

Leopard Sighting & the Last Moments of a Black Monkey

After filling our containers, we kept going along a dried up stream. Now we have to find a way up to the Aluth Deyyange Gala and depending on our time, we could either stay the night at the Toddy Tappers’ Hut or go all the way to the Appalla Pathana. It was somewhat easy to follow the stream as there were very few obstacles and certainly no threat of Maussa along it.

All of a sudden, Tony shouted “Leopard!” and both Nava mama and I ran forward. We were only a few feet behind him and he was breathlessly pointing to the right looking as pale as a mummy. I kind of saw a tail moving among the trees. This place where we were is called Heenketiya Malakandura, a funny name at that. I wonder what’s it with Tony and leopards. The bugger seems to find leopards wherever he goes. Do you remember how he got scared when he spotted the leopard along the Kirigalpoththa Trail some time ago?

Well that time he ran like the rabbit who believed the world is collapsing and this time it was no different. Nava mama and I slowly went towards where he was frantically pointing and saw a thick black bundle among the trees. “Oh gosh, I’m not moving a single foot from here” Tony sounded like an old woman who’s gone hysterical. We cautiously approached the black bundle to find it was a Black Monkey. However this fellow looked kind of weird sitting on the ground holding on to a tree and swaying from side to side.

My first thought was that the leopard had attacked the fellow and had run sensing our arrival. However a bit closer, we noticed flies swarming over the monkey. Very strange so we got a bit closer to find the flies were apparently gathering on a wound on the belly of the monkey. If the leopard attacked the fellow now, how come the flies have come so fast? Feeling puzzled we stopped to watch the fellow. He kept swaying as if drunk and I thought he must’ve had some poisonous stuff to eat and now feeling sleepy as a result. Still it didn’t give me a clue about the flies.

Nava mama was to my right concentrating fully on the monkey and I suddenly felt someone looking at me. I squatted down and looked ahead past the monkey and what I saw chilled me to the marrows. There was a pair of sharp and piercing eyes watching me through the bushes and those eyes were attached to a spotted head with ears pricked up. The mouth was half open and looking down I noticed this was a leopard sitting and keeping a look-out. “Don’t move a muscle” I could hear Manny the Mammoth from Ice Age whisper in my ear.

I kept looking back at him and he at me. There were so many trees between us and about 100 yards distance. I tried to take a picture but the camera wouldn’t know that I was interested in a leopard among the bushes so far away. So he kept focusing on the trees and leaves in the foreground. Then I took my eyes off the leopard, which was a big mistake and concentrated on the black monkey which was closer to me. I started recording the fellow’s movements when all of a sudden he gave up struggling and leaned onto his right. I could see the muscles in the body twitch a bit before he went completely still. I guess that was when he died.

Oh, what a pity to have witnessed a black monkey die like that. When I looked back where I saw the leopard, the fella had gone. No matter how much I tried to spot it, I couldn’t find him. He was anyway not a big fellow; I’d say a large cub. Then we got to the monkey and took a closer look at him. There was a wound in its right side of the abdomen which looked a bit old. He probably had been attacked by something such as an eagle or even a leopard some time ago and finally had come here to die when the wound was infected. You can see everything on the Video Journey.

We then returned to anxiously waiting Tony and he kept stammering in fear. Well, I was finally lucky to have seen a leopard in its own territory but couldn’t take a picture to show you. I guess we’ll have to go pacify Tony otherwise he will refuse to move further up from here. You check out some of the pictures until we get back on the trail.

Dried stream where we walked on

Hundreds of vines depending on mighty trees to go up

Had been tapped but not anymore

All but dried up

It was relatively easy to walk

Some water sources for the animals

Gigantic creepers

My favorite macros

Here the fellow

Can you see holding onto the tree for support?

Finally gave it up

A pity to see him die like that

Can you see the wound on the side?

Sad face with a hungry fly on it

Shaking like a skinless polar bear, Tony is pointing where he saw the leopard

Not edible

Artistic ones

Twins

Patterns

Like sniper camouflage netting

Toddy Tappers’ Hut @ Aluth Deyyange Gala

Now we started going uphill to the left at an angle looking to get to the top of Aluth Deyyange Gala. It’d gone past 12 noon and we kept the lunch on hold until we reached a point where we can make plans properly. Going along the uneven ground where there’s no footpath is both time consuming and exhausting. Couple of times we lost bearing of but kept getting back on track. This was due to the fact that terrain had changed quite dramatically over the last one and half a decade and Nava mama said the trees have changed but thankfully there were a few rock formations every now and then which got us back on track. He even pointed a path used long ago by the Toddy Tappers and Cardamom Hunters to go to Kaikawala from Kalupahana circling the Aluth Deyyange Gala and Appalla Pathana.

After losing our way quite a number of times we finally reached the top of Aluth Deyyange Gala around 1.30pm. If we didn’t have NKPS, we’d never have managed any of this. It’s a trusted and proven method when it comes to travelling inside the Knuckles especially when starting from Meemure. We decided not to go to Appalla Pathana as the water source there must’ve dried so continued downhill on the other side towards the Toddy Tappers’ Hut which is being used by Meemure people. The legs were really unhappy as they kept climbing all this time and now have to go down a steep slope. I promised not to keep them going till late and give them a long rest tonight. The whole body required a long rest so we kept going.

Eventually we arrived at a hut which was very much like the one we came across yesterday at Kalupahana and had been used by the cardamom seekers. However this was abandoned unlike the one at Kalupahana. We went further down and eventually made it to the Toddy Tappers’ Hut. Gosh the relief we all felt having seen a resting point. There were 4 people already in it making jaggery out of the palm sap they’d collected. Nava mama knew them really well and they greeted us warmly and exclaimed at the miracle of not being affected by Maussa plants despite having walked for miles inside the jungle. They offered us some plain tea with the best ever eaten jaggery. They were pure Kithul Jaggery with no sugar or chemicals mixed. I don’t think you get to taste them like that very often, right from where they were made.

The owner of the hut was Samarasekara, a villager from Meemure, and he even offered us some toddy. The time was closer to 3pm and we decided not to go anywhere but to settle here and do the rest tomorrow. Tony and I went and had a wash at a nearby spring and came back to prepare lunch of canned Polos and bread. Gosh it tasted heavenly and while we savor our late lunch why don’t you enjoy these pictures?

Trying to reach the skies

Not letting go

Sticky juice

Wanaraja one of the 10 Raja species

Nava mama was very sad to note that there weren’t snails like this anymore, even this was a dead shell

You don’t wanna get anywhere near them

Much needed Jeewani break

Dead but still sticking to the tree bark

The first hut which was used to dry cardamom

Where they put firewood to dry the cardamom stacked in racks inside

Front

Living areas

Where they cook

This is where the cardamom is stored for drying

Another angle

All dried up

Here is full of fruits

Here we are. In the foreground is Samarasekara’s father

Here we are. In the foreground is Samarasekara’s father

From behind

A derelict hut

Interior

Can you see the living quarters among the jaggery too?

The boiling sap pot

Packed with the essential firewood

100% pure jaggery, very tasty and healthy

The harvest

Bubbles coming out

We finished the whole bottle in no time

Very hot but appetizing

Canned polos in the cooking

Chopping the chilies and onions for a salad

Mouth watering

Ready to eat

I was so selfish and wished they’d leave the hut to us. Well you had to ask for something to happen as they all said that they’d go to the village and come back in the morning leaving the hut in our care. There was a pot of palm sap already being boiled in the hut and few halves of already made jaggery ready to take with them. We had to keep mixing the toddy bowl so that it’d solidify slowly. The evening arrived faster than we expected and we got the things ready for the night.

Nava mama decided to sleep inside the hut and keep an eye out for the jaggery bowl while we pitched a tent outside for Tony and me. The winds started to pick up so we had to use heavy rocks to keep along the edge of the tent to prevent it from flying with us into the Meemure paddy fields. Lakegala smiled at us from the distance and congratulated on a journey well done.

We made a special dinner to celebrate our journey of pasta mixed with green chilies and canned chicken meat balls. It came better than we planned. Having had our dinner, we turned in early thinking back of our journey so far.

The hut is all ours

Lakegala in the dusk

So is Katu Kithul Kanda

Oh hello!

Pretty

Getting ready for the camp early

Tony weighing the tent down with stones which saved us from being blown away

Finally ready to go in and note the skylight

Thickened sap

Mmmm smells nice

Reduced dramatically

Ready for dinner?

Ready for dinner?

Being tempered, Tony’s special

Mixed with chicken meat balls

Freshly cooked pasta

And mixed together, tastes yummy

Good night!

It’d be lovely to spend a couple of days with a toddy tapper, wouldn’t it? I might as well do it one of these days. As predicted the winds arrived in full force rattling our tent and threatening to chase us over Appalla Pathana. However, we were at Aluth Deyyange Gala which is believed to be protected by the Kahatagahawela Aluth Deyyo aka Kahatagahakumbure Aluth Bandara. Here are some Panos for you to look at from today.

Pano 1

Pano 2

Pano 3

Well, it was yet another glorious day and we were treated with a leopard sighting even though not so lucky to have captured it on the camera. We slept like logs despite the howling winds. The ground was flat and no jutting rocks to sting us. We slept till the sun rose above the eastern mountains including Lakegala.

It’s gotta be another story as we’d be travelling all over Appalla Pathana passing the Aluth Deyyange Gala taking great risks. Come back for that story next time. Until then, this is Sri signing off for now.

Take care and keep travelling.