Nuwaragala the castle with a heavenly pond!

The map – Click to Enlarge

Nuwaragala the fortress on top of a rock in the deep forest of elephant country was once a dream, nevertheless just like many other dreams this one also came true. After getting guidance from Priyanjan who had been there last year, I got together with my friend Dumidu and decided to give it a try. Though it was raining elsewhere and drizzling on and off at Maha oya we went ahead with our plans.
So on a hot and humid day early morning we reached Akuloba Lake where we met Wimalasiri who was our guide for the day. He then took us on his bike towards his home where we were greeted with a cup of tea. From Wimalasiris home we had to walk about 2Km’s towards their “Chena Wadiya” where we rested for about half an hour until Wimalasiri came back with a gun and two more Civil defense guys called Sudu banda and Mahinda. They also brought few mouthwatering water melons which we didn’t forget to taste before setting foot towards the jungle. We did call the officer in charge and got all three soldiers released so they could guide us with no obstacles.

Destination as seen from akuloba lake

towards danigala and wahawa

wow	starting the 7Km walk

pesticides used without proper protection

hut view

mode of transport

did you see the foot prints

From Akuloba chena we started creeping towards the forest which was more than a savanna type one than a dense dry zone forest. After about 1Km we reached a road which leads towards the rock which was bulldozed during the war for military purposes (this starts from 32^nd mile post Aranthalawa camp as I can recall) and one could easily get to the base of the rock via this road with a normal bike or a 4WD (not the ornamental ones). We did come across few CT-100 bikes which were using the jungle route to transport the milk from their cattle who feed at the base of the rock at few instances. Next 2.5Km was along this said path and because it was a path through savanna land we felt the heat to the maximum, which forced us to have some breaks and taste few watermelons to satisfy our fluid loss.

entering elephant country

more to go

elephants dung were found all over

reaching the base

treasure hunting continues

entering the path

When we reached the base of the rock it was around 10.30am and the surrounding scenery at this point was something spectacular. We were suddenly surrounded by mountains on all four sides and we felt like been trapped in an isolated grass patch in middle of nowhere. The initial part of the climb was through a typical dry zone forest patch which showed signs of heavy elephant activity. From the beginning onwards we were walking on an ancient chariot path build by King Sadhdhatissa to get to the top of the rock. Rock plates which were placed on the road and the rocky wall does exist all the way though it had been washed away at many places. Not so far away from the beginning we had to climb uphill through a notoriously tall and evil mana patch which drained our fitness mentally and physically. At around 12.30pm we reached the top of the mountain and my friend fell flat on the rock feeling extremely dehydrated. All of our water stock and watermelons couldn’t rehydrate his 100Kg body. So after about 30 minutes he got up determined to walk towards the heavenly pool in search of a miracle.

ancient rock plated road

the major obstacle

drainage system

on the way scenery towards Ulhitiya

out of the mana and time for a rest

evidence from the past

ancient steps

tempitiya lake and barons cap seen far away behind narakamulla range

note the elephant has rubbed its back

my favourite

lakes at akuloba

Rambaken oya reservoir

finally at the top

mallathugala

Rambaken oya zoomed

plenty of peaks

The pond itself is a master piece and located on the edge of the rock with a stunning view towards Rambaken oya. This was surely a royal threat to our tired souls and my friend got a new life after having a dip in this pond which was 5 and a half feet deep with floating elephant dung and hundreds of toads who were jumping over our heads. It was miraculous, we recovered our lost strength within seconds and we didn’t feel like getting out of the pond at all. While we were having a dip Wimalasiri and Mahinda took off to go in search of drinking water from the only known spring on top of Nuwaragala and it took them almost 1 hour to return back. After refreshing ourselves with some fresh water, we had some hoppers for lunch before starting to snap around.

From where we were the eastern cost, Pulukunawa side, Mangalagama, Ethabandi gala, and other mountains of Nuwaragala reserve could be easily seen brushing their shoulders together. Through a small gap the newly built Rambakan oya reservoir also could be seen. The best view was towards Padiyathalawa and Maduru oya reservoir including Omanugala and Thoppigala regions. We also did spot Akuloba and Borapola lakes. Nuwaragala is said to be a fortress which was never completed and the ruins at the summit are suggestive of it.

70 X 80 heavenly pond

wow it was like amurthaya

enjoying a dip

part of friars hood could be seen

Ethbendagala

Kokagala

the pond on the edge

aranthalawa and pulukunawa

Ethbendagala and mallutugala

laid long ago

Ethbendagala full view

towards batticaloa

the eastern ocean

rock view

beautiful scenery

maduru oya reservoir

through the bushes

towards ulhitiya reservoir

the rain never reached us – Click to enlarge

the savana in middle of the mountain belt

After snapping around we descended towards the huge cave which once even had a brick wall with pillars and it been on the slope of the rock produced some stunning scenery. There is a long inscription just below the drip ledge saying it was done by king Saddathissa and his son Lajjathissa who offered this to the clergy. So it is believed that this unfinished fortress was later converted in to a monastery complex.

steep drop from the cave

cave view

team spirit

wow

splendid view

what a place to rest

pano from the cave

view towards padiyathalawa

wow again

this is what idiots have done

inscription

note the groove on the ground which once harbored a wall

towards Namal oya forest

trying to imitate saradiel

another view from the cave

elephants do come to this cave

couldnt resist clicking around

if i could fly

Akuloba area

After having a chat while enjoying the panoramic view from the cave we began our descend through the hazardous Mana patch and reached the base, to find a mini stream to wash off the fur of mana. Since it was turning dark and the Elephants start to roam out of the deep forest, we had to rush back towards the village. Somehow we had walked roughly 14Km’s for the day and that plus the difficulties faced with the humidity and Mana we were feeling exhausted. At such a time a fresh “Pani Dodam” (2 glasses) drink which Wimalasiri’s wife offered to us was the medicine we needed for a speedy recovery. After thanking our newly met friends and offering something for their service which they provided, we decided to head back towards Maha Oya. After reaching the hospital of Maha oya, I had a clean wash and continued 150 Km’s in a bus standing all the way to Monaragala and that was the most difficult part of the day for me and my legs.

Quote

Believed to be the hideout of Prince Saddatissa during his time of rancor with his brother the great King of Sri Lanka King Dutugamunu, Nuwaragala according to prominent archeologist Ellawala Medhananda Thera was a monastery built by King LajjaThissa, who ruled the country 119-109 BC. 

A stone paved pathway with a width of nearly 20 feet leads to the top of the mountain and to a large drip ledged cave, which can comfortably house nearly 150 people. The cave has been partitioned with brick walls and had had a plastered and decorated interior but the walls and the inner plaster is in ruins today.

Further uphill is a pond, an eternal water source to the creatures of the wild today, but would have been initially built to cater hundreds of arhant monks, who whiled away in meditation. The ruins of monastery spread in and around Nuwaragala as witness to the prosperity of monastery during the first century BC. One of the most prominent among is the ruins is a statue house, which would have been built nearly three hundred years after the initial construction of the monastery. 

According to some archeologists Nuwaragala could have been the Girinuwara, the famed city of Prince Giri Abaya, the partner of Princess Soma, the sister of King Kawanthissa. Sinhala historical chronicles Datuwansa records Prince DutuGamunu visiting the site with a Minister named Dava. A confrontation between the uncle and nephew broke up the kingdom and Prince Giri Abaya eventually left to SeruNuwara abandoning his mountain fortress.

Today this mountain fortress turned monastery is in the homeland of a Vedda community, who lives in and around Pollebedda, few miles away from Nuwaragala, in a well-known vedda village immortalized in Dr. Spittel’s books

Omanugala peak

plenty of mondanocks

descending along the ancient path

the ancient rocky road leading to the summit

at last ground zero

interesting shape of Pettigala

getting back

they were everywhere

after a 4km walk this was are temporary resting place

hmm rolling dung(please dont squash them)

didnt have to use them

good bye nuwaragala

Thanks for reading!